No flash is needed with white LEDs if you just go in and adjust the white balance or tint a little bit. It usually only needs to be kicked towards blue just a smidge to get the color to look correct but some people go way overboard.Biggest issues I see with pics posted on many threads
phone photo's that are blurry - and still get posted.
"rosin-lens" (you know, the smudges)
And blurple/QB pics that are unedited.
A flash pic with the brightness adjusted later will ditch most of the harsh QB stuff.
Blurple pics need way too much help. Might as well set the plan out, or get a pic at lights out with natural lighting, or a flash pic in a dark tent.
I usually turn my lights down to 10% for pics....I find I get a massive glare on the top of the buds when light is turned to normal %No flash is needed with white LEDs if you just go in and adjust the white balance or tint a little bit. It usually only needs to be kicked towards blue just a smidge to get the color to look correct but some people go way overboard.
I find that the flash actually knocks down some of the "halo" tops. where the white pistils are just a QB blurr.No flash is needed with white LEDs if you just go in and adjust the white balance or tint a little bit. It usually only needs to be kicked towards blue just a smidge to get the color to look correct but some people go way overboard.
My dumb ass would occasionally forget to turn them back upI usually turn my lights down to 10% for pics....I find I get a massive glare on the top of the buds when light is turned to normal %
That's actually a really good idea and I never thought to do that.I usually turn my lights down to 10% for pics....I find I get a massive glare on the top of the buds when light is turned to normal %
I usually go off of the silver lining of the tent. That is usually pretty easy to match to how it looks under normal lighting.I find that the flash actually knocks down some of the "halo" tops. where the white pistils are just a QB blurr.
Having the flash also makes the pic more 'instantaneous' on my camera and less susceptible to stoner-hands blur.
If I am going to mess with the color at all, I make sure there is something in the pic that is a standard RBG to adjust to. Whether it's a green tent pole, yellow gnat strips, whatever. I never look at the plant for adjustment.
I have done it once so far LOL.My dumb ass would occasionally forget to turn them back up
Makes a massive difference. and you dont even need the flashThat's actually a really good idea and I never thought to do that.
My dumb ass would occasionally forget to turn them back up
LOL!!! Had to post this... have an awesome day y'all!!!Then don't go away mad, just go away.
I tried using just a screw in led to help with a shadow then forgot to turn it off so it was on 24hrs until I went to water again...My dumb ass would occasionally forget to turn them back up
so In flower without co2 and strong LEDs should I be around 80?Let’s leave this discuss on main discussion of the thread boys
Since you asked . Like fluence and many brands explained for leds co2 is a must for leds since envirment is a different shift 78-86 ( like I explained in the first post ) you raise gradually just like the light and the co2 and also follow vpd with temp since using your not running a bulb that takes the humidity anymore . Thus more efficient way is vpd chart followed and higher temps vs lower temps and following lower humidity (like tradionional hps and de)
hps 75-80f (cost ya more in a/c and dehumidifier )
Led 78-86f ( co2 cost but way less power and better results imo)
Yes.so In flower without co2 and strong LEDs should I be around 80?
Gawd, I’d love to see something like that in my tent.