#Heisenbeans Genetics

Burned Haze

Really Active Member
From my understanding....unless I am reading it wrong, 75f-80f and 50% RH is the sweat spot for LED in flower with lights on.
(If I would of seen who’s thread this was I would of I would of not wrote this . I thought I was being helpful) . Sorry I added a non related message in the seed form ( you can’t delete messages )
..
To re-correct ya a little bit

78-86f on canopy
Co2 900-1500 ppm veg stage
Co2 900-1200ppm flower stage
Always raise both light % and co2% gradually and base the co2 and nutes on the exact ppm . If you see a certain pheno demanding more of a micro or Nitrogen ( I would just add a top feed of dry amendment vs a separate Rez or look away from the issue )

key with humidty when you go past 78f is you need to have co2 on and when you do that, you need to really be on the sweet spot and not play around with playing god of making your own % of humidty wants . Follow what the graph of vpd demand per the temp and you will succeed and don’t worry about mold as along as you have healthy plant and good airflow ( if you don’t have good airflow the Co2 would be a issue too+ cooling your lights )

Best tool to know your room and your canopy temperatures . Get a thermometer ( that will only cost ya less than 20 bucks and save your life if you don’t have one yet) than have multiple humidty/temp with probe around room + I really like my pulse meter ( wireless environment controller that tells me the temps, humidty and vpd and more) I put the pulse right above my highest point of my leds and it will warm me and log the whole journey. Def worth every dollar and then some .

Info on vpd
-
Info on pulse
 
Last edited:
To re-correct ya a little bit

78-86f on canopy
Co2 900-1500 ppm veg stage
Co2 900-1200ppm flower stage
Always raise both light % and co2% gradually and base the co2 and nutes on the exact ppm . If you see a certain pheno demanding more of a micro or Nitrogen ( I would just add a top feed of dry amendment vs a separate Rez or look away from the issue )

key with humidty when you go past 78f is you need to have co2 on and when you do that, you need to really be on the sweet spot and not play around with playing god of making your own % of humidty wants . Follow what the graph of vpd demand per the temp and you will succeed and don’t worry about mold as along as you have healthy plant and good airflow ( if you don’t have good airflow the Co2 would be a issue too+ cooling your lights )

Best tool to know your room and your canopy temperatures . Get a thermometer ( tha will only cost ya less than 20 bucks and save your life if you don’t have one yet) than have multiple humidty/temp with probe around room + I really like my pulse meter ( wireless environment controller that tells me the temps, humidty and vpd and more) I put the pulse right above my highest point of my leds and it will warm me and log the whole journey. Def worth every dollar and then some .

Info on vpd
-
Info on pulse
Lucky I dont go past 78F.
 

led1k

Really Active Member
(If I would of seen who’s thread this was I would of I would of not wrote this . I thought I was being helpful) . Sorry I added a non related message in the seed form ( you can’t delete messages )
..
To re-correct ya a little bit

78-86f on canopy
Co2 900-1500 ppm veg stage
Co2 900-1200ppm flower stage
Always raise both light % and co2% gradually and base the co2 and nutes on the exact ppm . If you see a certain pheno demanding more of a micro or Nitrogen ( I would just add a top feed of dry amendment vs a separate Rez or look away from the issue )

key with humidty when you go past 78f is you need to have co2 on and when you do that, you need to really be on the sweet spot and not play around with playing god of making your own % of humidty wants . Follow what the graph of vpd demand per the temp and you will succeed and don’t worry about mold as along as you have healthy plant and good airflow ( if you don’t have good airflow the Co2 would be a issue too+ cooling your lights )

Best tool to know your room and your canopy temperatures . Get a thermometer ( that will only cost ya less than 20 bucks and save your life if you don’t have one yet) than have multiple humidty/temp with probe around room + I really like my pulse meter ( wireless environment controller that tells me the temps, humidty and vpd and more) I put the pulse right above my highest point of my leds and it will warm me and log the whole journey. Def worth every dollar and then some .

Info on vpd
-
Info on pulse
key with humidty when you go past 78f is you need to have co2 on

Never heard that. Where did you find?? I've read going above certain light level you need co2 but that's it.
 

Burned Haze

Really Active Member
Let’s leave this discuss on main discussion of the thread boys

Since you asked . Like fluence and many brands explained for leds co2 is a must for leds since envirment is a different shift 78-86 ( like I explained in the first post ) you raise gradually just like the light and the co2 and also follow vpd with temp since using your not running a bulb that takes the humidity anymore . Thus more efficient way is vpd chart followed and higher temps vs lower temps and following lower humidity (like tradionional hps and de)

hps 75-80f (cost ya more in a/c and dehumidifier )
Led 78-86f ( co2 cost but way less power and better results imo)

 

sfrigon1

Seed Aficionado
Let’s leave this discuss on main discussion of the thread boys

Since you asked . Like fluence and many brands explained for leds co2 is a must for leds since envirment is a different shift 78-86 ( like I explained in the first post ) you raise gradually just like the light and the co2 and also follow vpd with temp since using your not running a bulb that takes the humidity anymore . Thus more efficient way is vpd chart followed and higher temps vs lower temps and following lower humidity (like tradionional hps and de)

hps 75-80f (cost ya more in a/c and dehumidifier )
Led 78-86f ( co2 cost but way less power and better results imo)

Interesting 🧐
 

Burned Haze

Really Active Member
Sorry for second post but I really do think this second video would help people understand their lights and the whole process . He explained it well.

explains extremely well why going over the par level you need Co2 (700) most leds are over that, very good info
 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
On the testers I didn't put much in the description earlier. Here' my impression so far. (crosses are in my sig block)

The Dosi-cakes is the tallest pre-flip, and the stretchiest post-flip. Both Lemon Tree iterations I have are the shorter ones. The Lemon Tree S1 was the shortest when I flipped 4 of 5 - the SD cross was short enough that I waited a week to flip her. The LTS1 is also the slowest to show, so I think longer flowering?

Very healthy once they got rooted (I had issues with a few early, nothing major)- no signs of irregularities, waiting on smells to pop
 
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