HydroRed's DIY Budget Flood and Drain (approx $40 total)

[Skeet Kuhn Dough]

Will I have to,adjust my ph much after initially making the reservoir?

How,often do you drain and redo the rez?

Have You @HydroRed ever used gh flora 3 part series? Silica? Cal mag?

How far should I expect the ph to drift weekly if the plants are in a healthy environment?

This May sound stupid but without taking off the lid have u ever had like a spicket on the side so u could,test a cup at a time?

Do you let your ph drift at all say 5.8 - 6.5?

How do I get the rooted plant in coco transplanted into the hydroton?

Your pH will need adjusting from time to time if you're growing hydroponically, no matter the method.

Many people, regardless of method when using hydro, change their reservoir once a week. I've skipped a week before and just added nutes as necessary.

GH Flora Series is highly regarded and even people that prefer other nutes typically don't have anything negative to say about this product. It's definitely stood the test of time and are my favorite nutes. Regarding CalMag, I think it's best to have some on standby, just in case.

You're pH will drift some and I, when using DWC, needed to adjust once a day to 5.8 so that the nutes don't get locked out. One thing I noticed: the longer I went without changing the reservoir, the faster my pH would drift. I don't know, maybe it was the city water

Your pH will drift in a hydroponic system. Use your pH pen or whatever you have daily to set it back to what you deem ideal. Most people like 5.8 as it's the an average of the highest and lowest you'd want your pH.

You might want to ask somebody else about transplanting. If you're growing hydroponically then I would say that your best bet at germinating would be rockwool. Hell, even if I was gonna grow in soil I'd prefer rockwool. I'm just used to it.

Not sure if this helps or if somebody else may feel differently. Adios.

*edit: you may want to keep some hydroguard on standby as well.

 

[Texagonian]

You can run coco in fabric pots in a ebb n flo type system. It just calls for a few different parameters.

I’d be interested in hearing said parameters. Hybrid hydro! I know coco isn’t soil and can be used with synthetic and organic nutrients. Definitely interested in the use of an ebb and flow system. I’ve made one of these systems but have hydroton to use. Just curious and like new information.

 

[Boybelue]

I have all those. Just too big. 3 gallons and 5 gallons. I have amended the coco so many times its half or less soil. Ffof. But I think,if I,do it I'm going all the way!!

Yeah I would only use pure coco in this type setup as you need a fairly inert media.

I’d be interested in hearing said parameters. Hybrid hydro! I know coco isn’t soil and can be used with synthetic and organic nutrients. Definitely interested in the use of an ebb and flow system. I’ve made one of these systems but have hydroton to use. Just curious and like new information.

It's not that much different really, just dialing in your flood times,of course you want need to flood as much. Keep an eye on nutrient levels as you get it dialed because even though your not feeding as often your medium holds more nutrient solution and more is lost to evaporation. And as always with coco make sure your cal-mag levels are adequate. Another thing I was playing with was flood levels, a 1/4 to a 1/3 of the way up your pot seemed better but you could get a few risers and play around. I would say slowing down the drain time so the coco can wick thoroughly cancels out any need for height adjustment.

 

[Boybelue]

Another thing I'd like to mention to some of you guys that are first time buyers of hydroton and I'm sure @HydroRed will back me up on this. Dont cheap out on the hydroton, theres some really crappy hydroton out there. Shit floats, has terrible ph problems, if your questioning the brand your thinking about buying ask somebody, dont make the same mistake I did.

 

[Skeet Kuhn Dough]

Another thing I'd like to mention to some of you guys that are first time buyers of hydroton and I'm sure @HydroRed will back me up on this. Dont cheap out on the hydroton, theres some really crappy hydroton out there. Shit floats, has terrible ph problems, if your questioning the brand your thinking about buying ask somebody, dont make the same mistake I did.

Which brand do you prefer to use?

 

[Boybelue]

Which brand do you prefer to use?

The last I bought was "liaflor" but its difficult to find in the states. If you run upon any "easy green" or actual hydroton brand get it. Hydroton was actually the first brand of expanded clay. Now all expanded clay is referred to as hydroton. But the mine in Germany where the original hydroton was made tinkered out. To this day that was the best mine, so if you find the original stuff get it. Expanded clay made in Germany is still the best imho. Even though mother earth sells a product called original hydroton, its not.

 

[Texagonian]

Yeah I would only use pure coco in this type setup as you need a fairly inert media.
It's not that much different really, just dialing in your flood times,of course you want need to flood as much. Keep an eye on nutrient levels as you get it dialed because even though your not feeding as often your medium holds more nutrient solution and more is lost to evaporation. And as always with coco make sure your cal-mag levels are adequate. Another thing I was playing with was flood levels, a 1/4 to a 1/3 of the way up your pot seemed better but you could get a few risers and play around. I would say slowing down the drain time so the coco can wick thoroughly cancels out any need for height adjustment.

All that makes sense and is great information. I haven’t done a straight coco run yet and if I were going to I’d buffer the coco to assist with calmag leaching issues. Thanks for sharing

 

[Hydro]

Will I have to,adjust my ph much after initially making the reservoir?

How,often do you drain and redo the rez?

Have You @HydroRed ever used gh flora 3 part series? Silica? Cal mag?

How far should I expect the ph to drift weekly if the plants are in a healthy environment?

This May sound stupid but without taking off the lid have u ever had like a spicket on the side so u could,test a cup at a time?

Do you let your ph drift at all say 5.8 - 6.5?

How do I get the rooted plant in coco transplanted into the hydroton?

"How,often do you drain and redo the rez?"
Ive done all different kinds of intervals of res changes. I havent noticed much difference other than needing to chase pH for a few days after I do it. Other than that, I dont see much change in growth. I dont really veg so unless I encounter a feed issue or Im getting ready to go to flower, I usually just change the res at flip and then once when I start adding bloom boost around week 4 or so. Im sure others will argue this, but its my way and it works well for me.

Have You @HydroRed ever used gh flora 3 part series? Silica? Cal mag?
I have and I have nothing bad to say about it other than it leaves salt lines that are hard to remove between grows. I just ran out of MegaCrop so I may be going back to the 2 part. I only used the "Purple and the Pink" bottles for Lucas formula. Cal/Mg under LED light or use with coco is a must in my opinion.

"How far should I expect the ph to drift weekly if the plants are in a healthy environment?"
Once I get my pH set from tap (around 5.7 or so) I let my pH drift up slowly and top off the res with pH'd water to bring it back down once it climbs. This usually takes about 5-7 days or so? I honestly dont get a lot of up swing in my pH once its set from initial fill. Top offs make it easy to manipulate the numbers in your favor in regards to PPM & pH.

"This May sound stupid but without taking off the lid have u ever had like a spicket on the side so u could,test a cup at a time?"
I've found it easiest to just manually turn the pump on, let the tray fill and test pH/PPM from there. No cups or spilling/dripping anything this way.

"Do you let your ph drift at all say 5.8 - 6.5?"
If I could get that kind of drift from my res, I would. You hit all the target ranges for just about every nutrient when you do this. I get about 5.7-6.1 in approx a week....if that.

"How do I get the rooted plant in coco transplanted into the hydroton?"
I usually just start cuts in a bubble cloner or seeds in Root riots so I have no medium to "change out" when going into the hydroton for the flood table. I suppose you could just wash the coco away from the root base best as possible without destroying the roots and just transplant into the hydroton. Make sure your root base is going to be deep enough in the pot to get kissed/submerged by the water when it floods or you will need to either raise your flood level, or hand water til roots find the flood line. This method can be very touch n feel but you will get it very quickly once you just do it and see them perk up within hours.

 

[Hydro]

Whatever brand of hydroton you get...RINSE IT FIRST.

 

[Boybelue]

Whatever brand of hydroton you get...RINSE IT FIRST.

I'm always interested how people clean there used hydroton, have you discovered any shortcuts or tricks to this? I made me of those 5 gallon bucket deals with wire mesh in the bottom and clean mine when its dry as a bone. I've noticed a lot of the little roots practically turn to dust when they're dry.

 

[Hydro]

I'm always interested how people clean there used hydroton, have you discovered any shortcuts or tricks to this? I made me of those 5 gallon bucket deals with wire mesh in the bottom and clean mine when its dry as a bone. I've noticed a lot of the little roots practically turn to dust when they're dry.

Pretty much this, but I use a large pasta strainer about 2 gal at a time. Just like you said, let it dry out and the micro roots just dust off during the shuffle and rinse nicely in the strainer under just plain tap water. The only stuff I toss is the stuff heavily embedded in root ball at harvest. I usually get about 85% of it back each run. I think I've got about $25 into hydroton in the last year or more lol

 

[Opie1]

This is an easy and affordable DIY Flood and Drain build. Anyone who knows me knows I like to do stuff on the cheap and this project is no different. This can be used either with the tray in the tote, or tray on a table and the tote as the reservoir.


PARTS NEEDED:
(1) "ODJOB" brand 7 gal mixing tray ($5.98 @ Lowes)
View attachment 675
(1) "Commander XXL" brand 27 gal tote ($8.99 @ Lowes)
View attachment 674

(1) 1/2" Fill - 3/4" Drain F&D bulkhead set ($8.99 @hydrostore or online)
View attachment 676
(1) 185 gph submersible pump ($12.49 at hydro shop or online)
View attachment 677
(2') 1/2" O.D. plastic tubing ($0.89 per ft at hydrostore or Lowes)
View attachment 678



The way this will work, is that the tray sits inside the top of the res, leaving space under the tray in the res to hold the water. The F&D kits gets installed into the tray any way you choose to do so that it fits your needs and pot count in the tray. The submersible pump sits under the tray in the tote (reservoir) and the 1/2" tubing connects the pump to the fill side of the F&D kit. I have labeled some of the parts by brand name specifically because I know they are an absolute perfect fit when used together. I have built 4 sets of these for myself and many more for others. They have been in use in my rooms for yrs now without any issue or fail so I know they work and am confident it will work just as good for you!

INSTRUCTIONS:

Drill out (2) 1-3/8" holes with a hole saw bit. The location of the holes should be dependent on how many pots you will be using and where you will be placing them. I use up to (6) 1gal pots so I drill mine accordingly but you can run any number of pots that you feel will work for you. Heres a couple examples of placement for your fill and drains with different pot sizes,count, and arrangements. Red represents fill, and green represents drain.
View attachment 682


-Connect the bulkheads onto the tray, sure to use the included rubber washers. No silicone or anything like that should be needed. Just put the screen top on the fill side, and put 1 collar and a screen on the drain side. Be sure you put the right pieces on the right sides or your table wont fill or drain properly. Again, you want just the screen top on the 1/2" fill bulkhead, and the collar AND the screen top on the 3/4" drain bulkhead (as shown).
View attachment 686
-Use the (2') of 1/2" tubing to connect the fill bulkhead on the bottom of the tray to the submersible pump and place the pump in the tote (reservoir).

-Place the tray into the top of the 27 gal tote (reservoir). Be sure there are no kinks in the 1/2" line when you place the tray into the tote. If there is, just cut some of the excess off so the line sets in the res comfortably connected to the submersible pump.
View attachment 687

-No tubing is needed for the drain portion since it will naturally just drain right back into the tote (reservoir) once the desired flood depth is achieved.

-Fill with water. I usually fill with 12 gal as this is enough to flood the tray, and still keep enough in the res so ther pump doesnt run dry or suck air.

-Connect the power cord from the submersible pump to a timer and set it to flood 15 min every 3-4 hrs (or as you feel is needed). This should be a good starting point until you determine the frequency of your floods. Once the timer cuts off, gravity will make the water flow back down to the res through the fill bulkhead and down through the submersible pump.

-Fill the tray with your potted plants in hydroton, adjust your nutrient strength & pH, and get to flooding -YOU'RE DONE!

TIPS:
Make sure the holes in the pots you use arent bigger than the hydroton (or whatever medium you use) or it will spill out during floods and make a mess of your clean flood tray and you'll be constantly picking out medium.

Be sure your tray sits flush down inside of the tote. You dont want any light in your reservoir. This is why I was "brand specific" on the tray and tote.

If you notice your flood level isnt where it once was, or if you notice bubbles coming from the fill while flooding -its time to add to the res.

You can use a sight tube to keep track of where your water level is or you can mark a line on the reservoir as a reference of where the water level should be.

You can use furniture dollies under the tote to make moving them around an easy task.

This same setup can be used on a table simply by getting the appropriate length of 1/2" and 3/4" tubing to run from the tray to pump in the res by drilling holes in the lid for the tubing to run through like shown:
View attachment 1889

Many thanks to @HydroRed for sharing this info, he also helped by guiding me through the building of one of these. I just haven’t had the chance to use it yet, but when it gets a little cooler I will. I would post pics but they’re forever lost on my old busted up phone, lol.

Just wanted to share this bit of advice also, as it just came to me- Anyone that plans on building a cloner using a tote? If you drill holes in the lid, your water will more than likely spray out. (Mine did, lol). But if you use Red’s technology of the tote-in-a-tote, the problem is solved.

Thanks again Red!

 

[TerpyTyrone]

Many thanks to @HydroRed for sharing this info, he also helped by guiding me through the building of one of these. I just haven’t had the chance to use it yet, but when it gets a little cooler I will. I would post pics but they’re forever lost on my old busted up phone, lol.

Just wanted to share this bit of advice also, as it just came to me- Anyone that plans on building a cloner using a tote? If you drill holes in the lid, your water will more than likely spray out. (Mine did, lol). But if you use Red’s technology of the tote-in-a-tote, the problem is solved.

Thanks again Red!

Thats my favorite part of this system!! I can do 4 6" circles and if I dont like it I can toss them and buy new net pots! No holes except the bulkheads. Genius!!

 

[gwheels]

Here is what I have found. I set the PH at 5.7 and it will rise steadily each day. In a couple of days it will get to 6.3 and i bring it back down (And check water levels).
I drop the ph pen right in the tray and turn the water on. This way I can test it operationally (which just saved my plants last night) and check the TDS and PH.
I think all water based hydro systems need frequent PH adjustments as the nutrients are leached from the solution by the plant.
I just move the lid a bit to put in PH drops. If i fill it i pour it in the top. Then i turn it off and on again and then measure it after a while. Just to be sure we are back to normal (and i dont want to lift all the plants out.
I have never used so much PH down in my life. But the stuff is strong so 1 quart should last a really really long time.

 

[Boybelue]

Many thanks to @HydroRed for sharing this info, he also helped by guiding me through the building of one of these. I just haven’t had the chance to use it yet, but when it gets a little cooler I will. I would post pics but they’re forever lost on my old busted up phone, lol.

Just wanted to share this bit of advice also, as it just came to me- Anyone that plans on building a cloner using a tote? If you drill holes in the lid, your water will more than likely spray out. (Mine did, lol). But if you use Red’s technology of the tote-in-a-tote, the problem is solved.

Thanks again Red!

Out the actual holes you drilled or the gap between the tote and lid? I do love finding stuff that fits together as well as this does. I'm always on the lookout at the box stores and places. Another good place to find reservoirs is at the co-op. Cattle feed buckets and bins work great for reservoirs. A good 50-100 gallon rez is expensive, I've seen some big cattle grain feeders for cheap at my local co-op. I diy a lot I usually make plastic curtains to hang down in my diy cloners so they dont leak, but I recently found a hefty tote that you can turn the lid upside down and it sits down recessed an inch or two into the tote and does not leak, no need for seal or curtain.

 

[Boybelue]

Here is what I have found. I set the PH at 5.7 and it will rise steadily each day. In a couple of days it will get to 6.3 and i bring it back down (And check water levels).
I drop the ph pen right in the tray and turn the water on. This way I can test it operationally (which just saved my plants last night) and check the TDS and PH.
I think all water based hydro systems need frequent PH adjustments as the nutrients are leached from the solution by the plant.
I just move the lid a bit to put in PH drops. If i fill it i pour it in the top. Then i turn it off and on again and then measure it after a while. Just to be sure we are back to normal (and i dont want to lift all the plants out.
I have never used so much PH down in my life. But the stuff is strong so 1 quart should last a really really long time.

I like to let my ph swing up to 6.5. I use to start at 5.8 but I start at 5.5 nowadays. Be nice to have a chart with all the different elements and at what ph there the most readily absorbed. I've had the same qaurts of up an down for yrs. Down is almost empty, up is nearly full, lol

 

[Opie1]

Out the actual holes you drilled or the gap between the tote and lid? I do love finding stuff that fits together as well as this does. I'm always on the lookout at the box stores and places. Another good place to find reservoirs is at the co-op. Cattle feed buckets and bins work great for reservoirs. A good 50-100 gallon rez is expensive, I've seen some big cattle grain feeders for cheap at my local co-op. I diy a lot I usually make plastic curtains to hang down in my diy cloners so they dont leak, but I recently found a hefty tote that you can turn the lid upside down and it sits down recessed an inch or two into the tote and does not leak, no need for seal or curtain.

The gap around the edge. I made my F&D out of 2 Hefty brand totes, they are the same exact dimensions except their height, which allows them to be stacked inside one another perfectly.

 

[Hydro]

I like to let my ph swing up to 6.5. I use to start at 5.8 but I start at 5.5 nowadays. Be nice to have a chart with all the different elements and at what ph there the most readily absorbed. I've had the same qaurts of up an down for yrs. Down is almost empty, up is nearly full, lol

 

[Boybelue]

Thanks @HydroRed, I'm wondering how much time is needed in the target zone for adequate absorption. Say you bring it back down at 6 are you getting enough calcium? This also has me wondering about my coco grows, would it be better to change the ph every other feeding to hit the target zones for Ca, Mg, and then Mn.

 

[Hydro]

Thanks @HydroRed, I'm wondering how much time is needed in the target zone for adequate absorption. Say you bring it back down at 6 are you getting enough calcium? This also has me wondering about my coco grows, would it be better to change the ph every other feeding to hit the target zones for Ca, Mg, and then Mn.

@6 it seems like you may be cutting off a small portion of the prime spot for a couple elements if you follow the chart. Things in hydro move much faster than dirt so "how long" may not be as important of a factor as actually hitting the target zones of each nutrient for good uptake.