I am going to be re-rigging stuff eventually when I get that wild hair... I am waiting to see if any more ideas pop up before I dig in.The cord from the driver to the boards, I added 6 feet to that and have a board that holds the drivers with a fan blowing on it.,
I like using a waterproof connector and heavy gauge wire (house hold wire works, a long cord for an HPS light is nice, i used 18 gauge lamp cord (can carry 5 amps) on a 250 watt light (just over 2 amps).
the drivers carry a lot of the heat...the boards themselves do not get that hot. The diodes sure do...they will singe your bald head...allegedly.
I also tape the shit out of my wagus once i like them...i have rolls of tape why not. Heat shrink would be super slick. NEXT time i am making it pretty.
I think i will change my 3 x 60 watt fixture into X X X configuration for a 5 footer to bloom...should be perfect. Might as well make that one super pretty i have heat shrink tubes around somewhere.
That's what I'm planning on. Then I'm gonna mount it in the room in the winter to get the extra heat? We'll see what's needed next year.If I am getting a spool of wire, I might as well runneach board separate from teh driver. 3 long wires, just mount the driver outside by the exhaust.
What kind of driver are you gonna use?Hey buddy - I got the little 4-strip light and eventually got these directions out of him. Couldn't find it on the site, and I didn't find him nearly as helpful - but I am buying lights, not friends.
Anyway, this seems to show one wire miraculously dividing into two...
Does this indicate two separate positive and negative wires coming from the driver?
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The existing driver on the HLG-260 is a meanwell (240?).What kind of driver are you gonna use?
I ended up running all my strips in series with a CC driver. But I have my strips pre set up to pair 2(parallel) then run each group in series. You get the same voltage but 1/2 the mA's on each strip.
I'm liking 4 on a 240-2100mA in series. Pretty intense lights at 2100mA each.
I think people run parallel with the CV drivers.
Leaf temps, not dry air is the main contributor to crispy leaves. Not so much a humidity issue. This has been my experience.Fascinating. I guess everyone's experience varies with this. I've been using ever more lighting and getting nothing but great results with the particular strains I am growing. With both the Durban Poison and Strawberry Lemonade strains, I am using closely spaced (about 6" apart) 500w LED quantum boards no more than 12" from the canopy and the plants absolutely love it. Not a crispy leaf in sight. No stretching. No weird mutations. But this is in a room with insane amounts of ventilation, so maybe that's it? I really don't know. Very interesting in any case!
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I mound all my drivers on the wall and run a minimum of 18ga, 300 volt wire to the lights. I wire my lights together with 14ga (single strand) wire. Just will slide in the fitting on the strip.Right, but a longer power cord still leaves the driver attached to the light.
Same power cord, longer driver-to-light wires.
Shit. They say 75 each. If ya dim the driver to 150. Ur safe. How will u know? Multimeter? Killawatt? To gain 30 watts?@TerpyTyrone
I have a QB120 question. I got a 120 watt driver and hooked up 2 X QB120 to that driver (in 4k). So they run at 60 watts each.
If I used a 240 watt driver it would drive those boards harder wouldn't it ? Past 60 watts each i mean? but what would it max out at 150??
I like the 120 watt meanwell. It is not adjustable and i don't have a potentiometer for it so it can run it full tilt and still be soft enough to help start seeds on top.
i use a killawattShit. They say 75 each. If ya dim the driver to 150. Ur safe. How will u know? Multimeter? Killawatt? To gain 30 watts?