THE BROADER SPECTRUM 380-760nm Samsung Strips

[TerpyTyrone]

I told ya this was the way to go, good to see you helping everybody out Terp. I like the quantum boards, but the strip/sunboards give better coverage. What kind/size driver did you guys put on this last fixture, the one above?

Lrs350-24

 

[gwheels]

I got 2 x 10 gauge extention cords...they are fat as my finger and you can pull power no heating up.

and i believe it brings all the POWER !!!!

If you need to get a cord to your grow lights get something overkill for safetys sakes !! they are a once in a lifetime purchase.

like fans...cheap ones just burn out and make you shit your pants when you see how close to a fire something can get.

 

[Meatman]

I got 2 x 10 gauge extention cords...they are fat as my finger and you can pull power no heating up.

and i believe it brings all the POWER !!!!

If you need to get a cord to your grow lights get something overkill for safetys sakes !! they are a once in a lifetime purchase.

like fans...cheap ones just burn out and make you shit your pants when you see how close to a fire something can get.

That’s what I’ve been learning over the years there is places you can cut cost but as far as fans, lights, tents there is no cutting cost there you might buy a tent that’s $100 that looks like the solar system or you can buy one that’s $150 and you’ll never need a new one same goes with lights as long as they last now buy some good lights and you might only have to replace them ever 10 years

 

[NoWaistedSpace]

Also, solid core vs braided. From what I have seen, the stuff that comes with DIY lights is basically like doorbell or garage door wiring 18/2 or 16/2, but not paired for obvious reasons. The casing seems less rubbery, probably has heat resistance that the doorbell won't.

I think that getting the 16/2 solid core wire to extend from the light(s) to a remote driver would be best. Please correct me if I am mistaken.
Running one wire per board from the driver seems best, and half the number of wires to corral seems good as well.

If anyone has a good 2-strand solid-core wire that would work best, share the link.

I use the automotive 16 ga.(?)"solid core" to wire my COBs and strips with. You can bend it and it stays in place. It just does fit in the connectors on the strips.
I use high grade "speaker wire" to run to the drivers. Rated for 300 volts.
I use cheap molex connectors. Tightens with screws so they never come loose.
They work perfectly fine and way cheaper.
Chilled has now added UV to their new strips.
Gonna have to try theirs. I might have to switch over to their strips. Since there's no discount on Growdaddys strips. lol

 

[H.A.F.]

I'm stupid electrically unless there's a pre-drawn diagram. I want the power coming from a remote driver to power three independent boards hanging separately. Would running a 16/2 from the driver to inside the tent then attaching one of these work?

 

[H.A.F.]

I'm not talking long runs of wire either. No more than reaching across a 3x3 tent, and having the driver right on top of the tent or mounted in that vicinity

 

[treefarmercharlie]

I'm stupid electrically unless there's a pre-drawn diagram. I want the power coming from a remote driver to power three independent boards hanging separately. Would running a 16/2 from the driver to inside the tent then attaching one of these work? View attachment 88826

Is that a dual circuit splice connector? First time I've seen one of those. I would say that, yes, that would work for what you want to do. Actually..."dual circuit" wouldn't be the correct term, but I think you know what I mean.

 

[H.A.F.]

Is that a dual circuit splice connector? First time I've seen one of those. I would say that, yes, that would work for what you want to do.

It looked pretty idiot-proof

 

[treefarmercharlie]

It looked pretty idiot-proof

In one sense, yes...but an idiot could also accidentally short it out

 

[NoWaistedSpace]

I'm stupid electrically unless there's a pre-drawn diagram. I want the power coming from a remote driver to power three independent boards hanging separately. Would running a 16/2 from the driver to inside the tent then attaching one of these work? View attachment 88826

Yep! That will work. It's nice you have + and - on the same connector.
Here is what I have been using to hook my led wires together.

 

[H.A.F.]

Yep! That will work. It's nice you have + and - on the same connector.

Yes I didn't know they existed until I needed to find something

 

[TerpyTyrone]

I'm stupid electrically unless there's a pre-drawn diagram. I want the power coming from a remote driver to power three independent boards hanging separately. Would running a 16/2 from the driver to inside the tent then attaching one of these work? View attachment 88826

Good up,to 12 awg. I have since chamged my lead to the"corral" , junction box to 14 awg stranded. To be safe. I love my brothers that I comendere making lights

 

[H.A.F.]

I got a roll of 16/2 silicone coated stranded/tinned wire. I don't mind stranded, but I hate stripping it, then seeing the extra wire pieces stuck in the removed casing. When I get the wago's and am actually ready to do something i'll take pics and ask more questions to be safe.

 

[H.A.F.]

Do you actually need the heat-sinks? I know the 65w and 100w boards they sell just have the driver stuck to the board. If it is just three boards hanging, with the driver outside, woud it work without them?

In one tent I have an HLG260 that is extra wide, and the spacing on them is fine for coverage with a third thrown in. The other is an HLG260 that was bought for a 3x3, and has the boards side by side instead of end to end. At a minimum I would have to cut the heat-sink in two, but if I could just ditch it that would be cool.

 

[TerpyTyrone]

I got a roll of 16/2 silicone coated stranded/tinned wire. I don't mind stranded, but I hate stripping it, then seeing the extra wire pieces stuck in the removed casing. When I get the wago's and am actually ready to do something i'll take pics and ask more questions to be safe.

I should take a pic of the j box and wagos tomorrow. I'm beat. 8 at the day job, a couple being dad, then My Hobby. I love this shit!

 

[TerpyTyrone]

12 x 46 two times. Almost 800 watts of there
I @Bustenbeans knows what's up!

 

[TerpyTyrone]

Do you actually need the heat-sinks? I know the 65w and 100w boards they sell just have the driver stuck to the board. If it is just three boards hanging, with the driver outside, woud it work without them?

In one tent I have an HLG260 that is extra wide, and the spacing on them is fine for coverage with a third thrown in. The other is an HLG260 that was bought for a 3x3, and has the boards side by side instead of end to end. At a minimum I would have to cut the heat-sink in two, but if I could just ditch it that would be cool.

Nah. Keep it. Js.

 

[TerpyTyrone]

Nah. Keep it. Js.

I'm,kot gonna explain it. But know. If the shit,is,rated for 2100ma and ur running it at 1400 ma. Ur probably good. But hlg shit is expensive......

 

[H.A.F.]

I'm,kot gonna explain it. But know. If the shit,is,rated for 2100ma and ur running it at 1400 ma. Ur probably good. But hlg shit is expensive......

What's best for slicing a heatsink in half?

 

[H.A.F.]

I'm,kot gonna explain it. But know. If the shit,is,rated for 2100ma and ur running it at 1400 ma. Ur probably good. But hlg shit is expensive......

The HLG shit is paid for... and between a year and a half and three years old. This is like the last step before I gradually upgrade over the next few years.

Do the heatsinks cool the boards? Or are they to mitigate the heating of the tent?