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You're going to want to run your temps at least 82° with leds
#Heisenbeans Genetics
- Thread starter Heisen
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Greenthumbskunk
PICK YOUR OWN
Could you have broad mites or another type of mite?
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I haven't seen any mites in last few weeks. Did spray a few times a month or so ago when I saw some spider mites on bottom of some leaves on just 1 plant which is by itself anyways.
Would fungas gnats do damage like that? I could drench the coco just in case
After reading the link the pics do look like some of the signs trying to think of a way to heat above 115 degrees for an hr. Maybe propane heater?
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Greenthumbskunk
PICK YOUR OWN
I usually do but it's been cold last few days. Temps Usually get in mid 80s if it warms up to 60.
Those look rough. and it seems to be the new growth affected, so the first thing that comes to mind to me is that the medium has way too much nutrients in it. Have you tried flushing the medium out heavily and then giving it a light feeding (like 1/4 dose)? It's been years since I've grown with salts so just me thinking out loud.
Streetpro09
Tester
With this info id have to lean towards bugs. Nothing in there is out of the ordinary for me and what i usually do.
With those numbers there no reason you shouldn't have healthy looking plants. Maybe not growing the fastest they can but shouldn't look like they do.
It's definitely something that's mostly affecting new growth.
You've changed nutes and still have this problem? Id lean more toward bugs.
I would think a dual burner propane heater could do the trick. If it is bugs. Just gotta be careful. Something like this is what I'm thinking. They make them in 1-3 burner models.
Tvanmunhen
Just some dude
@Greenthumbskunk perhaps check your device calibrations.
D
Deleted member 2835
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I think you'll want higher temps(140°) and for at least 2 hours that's what I do at the end of my cycles anyways. I achieve my temperatures by running my lights and co2 burner with no cooling it gets hot pretty quick.
i started watering half of mine at a time,just to keep the humidity down somewhat.
H.A.F.
a.k.a. Rusty Nails
I think that's bro science. There are a combination of factors that play in to how well your plants do under what lighting. I run my lights 'cool' at about 70-80% and my tents cool at about 78 with the lights on. My drivers are outside the tents. But all of this is in my climate controlled house so it's not gonna get "too" cold. I am in living soil so my worms are slowed a bit but active, but I have zero nutes that I am pushing to fight a light/nute/temp "should I add CO2?" battle. The thing to consider is what your goal is.
That's a Greenpoint GMO Cake fem front right. I don't post a lot in this thread because it's already Yuuuuuuuge. The only crispies I ever see are on my Chem91 S1's (back right) and I'm cool with that
It's expected. 
And the results are that my plants stay green and healty or nicely faded at the end
i will be happy when my stash is= to my use!
H.A.F.
a.k.a. Rusty Nails
This is all anecdotal, what happens in my tent - not a blanket statement of science
I have found that growing small plants like I do the stash doesn't grow unless you have lots of them. I veg about 4 weeks and flip. 5g pots and they have plenty of grow room for that timeframe.
Topping and leaving several branches (no crazy LST) around week three or four then letting those limbs veg for a few another week or two will double a small tree yeld with not much of a time investment.
Pruning away lower secondary limbs on those tops you save will get you a a little denser flowers but I don't think it does anything much for overall weight. The pot size is gonna determine that unless you are growing hydro.
So IMHO vegging longer and a larger pot is the main way to get more smoke from a plant without having to beat it to death with lights or nutes and the issues that can go with that.
just got my first batch of fabric bags ,been growin in throw out nursery pots, some 5's most 7 or 10gals.This is all anecdotal, what happens in my tent - not a blanket statement of science
I have found that growing small plants like I do the stash doesn't grow unless you have lots of them. I veg about 4 weeks and flip. 5g pots and they have plenty of grow room for that timeframe.
Topping and leaving several branches (no crazy LST) around week three or four then letting those limbs veg for a few another week or two will double a small tree yeld with not much of a time investment.
Pruning away lower secondary limbs on those tops you save will get you a a little denser flowers but I don't think it does anything much for overall weight. The pot size is gonna determine that unless you are growing hydro.
So IMHO vegging longer and a larger pot is the main way to get more smoke from a plant without having to beat it to death with lights or nutes and the issues that can go with that.
D
Deleted member 2835
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Me too man....me too
D
Deleted member 2835
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That's f
That's from personal experience...use to get week 3 deficiencies in flower after I raised my temps that issue went away.I think that's bro science. There are a combination of factors that play in to how well your plants do under what lighting. I run my lights 'cool' at about 70-80% and my tents cool at about 78 with the lights on. My drivers are outside the tents. But all of this is in my climate controlled house so it's not gonna get "too" cold. I am in living soil so my worms are slowed a bit but active, but I have zero nutes that I am pushing to fight a light/nute/temp "should I add CO2?" battle. The thing to consider is what your goal is.
View attachment 125345
That's a Greenpoint GMO Cake fem front right. I don't post a lot in this thread because it's already Yuuuuuuuge. The only crispies I ever see are on my Chem91 S1's (back right) and I'm cool with that
View attachment 125346
And the results are that my plants stay green and healty or nicely faded at the end
View attachment 125347
H.A.F.
a.k.a. Rusty Nails
Not trying to be a dick. I just don't like stuff being stated as fact that just ain't. I'd just hate to see someone take it as gospel when none of this is. Once you get past "add water and it grows" the science is pretty much done LOL
We're stoners and we 'bad-type' all the time lol. "That's not what I meant!"
D
Deleted member 2835
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It is fact though look up v.p.d charts. And the preferred led temperature is actually 83-85 degrees according to numerous sources. A simple Google search will provide you with this information...
The reasoning behind the suggested higher temps for LED is to get the surface of the leaf temp up to what it would be at the lowered temps that are usually run under MH/HPS. LED has higher intensity light but lower heat radiation coming off of it so the leaf temps at 78° are lower than they are when under MH/HPS at the same temperature. If you follow VPD guidelines then running higher temps in the tent helps keep the VPD in line.Not trying to be a dick. I just don't like stuff being stated as fact that just ain't. I'd just hate to see someone take it as gospel when none of this is. Once you get past "add water and it grows" the science is pretty much done LOL
We're stoners and we 'bad-type' all the time lol. "That's not what I meant!"
H.A.F.
a.k.a. Rusty Nails
If you are a home grower it goes right back to what your goals are. Look back 5 years ago before they invented VPD. Everyone still grew dank.
Again this is just my opinion, but ALL of the prerifferal stuff to growing the plant that has changed or "improved" over the years hasn't fixed or improved much of anything, except LED's. Less heat and more bang for the electrical buck both from the lighting and the climate control needed with the older bulb-lights. Not to mention regular bulb replacement because of age in those lights.
VPD monitoring and charts happened to come about right when the technology to pick gnat-shit out of pepper became possible. Side by side how things perform with and without VPD monitoring and controlling equipment is never going to matter for the homegrower unless you get to the 20-lighter stage.
If you need weight to pay the rent it's hard to convince me that the small percentage in yield gain is worth the investment in time, electricity, monitoring and control equipment, etc. and actually pay a dividend you would need to be the master grower from cannabis university and on point 24/7/365. I have no humidifier, de-humidifier, or monitoring equipment other than a temp/rH guage in each tent that I can look at on a desk-top monitor but never do. If I had to grow for weight I think I could do that with growing techniques (pruning/topping/training) and not have the expense of the VPD's.
Not to mention the people that keep their VPD on point then talking about intentionally stressing out plants to get them to express terps
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