#Heisenbeans Genetics

H.A.F.

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
Here's something to think about - and I don't know an answer - it's just an odd group of facts.

pH adjusting for feeding plants. It's only an indoor thing.

Indoors we attempt to replicate most outdoor things that are beneficial.

We can't add these bottled nutes to a plant without adjusting the pH or we kill plants.

The issue lies somewhere in the bottled nutes.

Also - VPD is the quest for some 'perfect' environment that exists basically - nowhere.
 
D

Deleted member 2835

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H.A.F. said:
If you are a home grower it goes right back to what your goals are. Look back 5 years ago before they invented VPD. Everyone still grew dank.

Again this is just my opinion, but ALL of the prerifferal stuff to growing the plant that has changed or "improved" over the years hasn't fixed or improved much of anything, except LED's. Less heat and more bang for the electrical buck both from the lighting and the climate control needed with the older bulb-lights. Not to mention regular bulb replacement because of age in those lights.

VPD monitoring and charts happened to come about right when the technology to pick gnat-shit out of pepper became possible. Side by side how things perform with and without VPD monitoring and controlling equipment is never going to matter for the homegrower unless you get to the 20-lighter stage.

If you need weight to pay the rent it's hard to convince me that the small percentage in yield gain is worth the investment in time, electricity, monitoring and control equipment, etc. and actually pay a dividend you would need to be the master grower from cannabis university and on point 24/7/365. I have no humidifier, de-humidifier, or monitoring equipment other than a temp/rH guage in each tent that I can look at on a desk-top monitor but never do. If I had to grow for weight I think I could do that with growing techniques (pruning/topping/training) and not have the expense of the VPD's.

Not to mention the people that keep their VPD on point then talking about intentionally stressing out plants to get them to express terps :unsure: 🤷‍♂️😜
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I feel personally attacked...lmao
 
SEBUD

SEBUD

Super Active Member
H.A.F. said:
Here's something to think about - and I don't know an answer - it's just an odd group of facts.

pH adjusting for feeding plants. It's only an indoor thing.

Indoors we attempt to replicate most outdoor things that are beneficial.

We can't add these bottled nutes to a plant without adjusting the pH or we kill plants.

The issue lies somewhere in the bottled nutes.

Also - VPD is the quest for some 'perfect' environment that exists basically - nowhere.
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Outside I add water and harvest. If the humidity doesn't do me in then I usually get good looking plants. I think you might be on too something.
 
Greenthumbskunk

Greenthumbskunk

PICK YOUR OWN
MisterKister said:
I think you'll want higher temps(140°) and for at least 2 hours that's what I do at the end of my cycles anyways. I achieve my temperatures by running my lights and co2 burner with no cooling it gets hot pretty quick.
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My lights have an auto dimming feature on em where it starts dimming down when temps get above 96

How will the plants do in temps that high? My greenhouse gets pretty dang warm but not that warm lol
 
Greenthumbskunk

Greenthumbskunk

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Ordered this



I have a 100lb propane tank I use for CO2 do you think I need to get an empty 20 lb tank to mount it too so it won't potentially heat up the 100lb tank too much and rupture?

I ordered a 25 ft hose as well to do just that
 
Greenthumbskunk

Greenthumbskunk

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MisterKister said:
Sorry I thought your issue was with powdery mildew and bud rot
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Shoot I can't even make it to flip for over a year because of same issue as in the pics I've posted. Has to be those broad mites, I tried getting a scope on em last night but I never could get it to focus right. Tried phone and it wouldn't focus on the leaves just the background. I guess eventually I'm going to get rid of em. In that link that was posted it said to increase temps to 115 for an hour.

I sprayed again with same stuff I used for spider mites hoping it would kill anything feeding. That article said broad mites live Inside the stems and the forbid is supposed to get inside the plants. I have plants 3 months old and only look 4 weeks in size
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
Greenthumbskunk said:
Shoot I can't even make it to flip for over a year because of same issue as in the pics I've posted. Has to be those broad mites, I tried getting a scope on em last night but I never could get it to focus right. Tried phone and it wouldn't focus on the leaves just the background. I guess eventually I'm going to get rid of em. In that link that was posted it said to increase temps to 115 for an hour.

I sprayed again with same stuff I used for spider mites hoping it would kill anything feeding. That article said broad mites live Inside the stems and the forbid is supposed to get inside the plants. I have plants 3 months old and only look 4 weeks in size
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Not a soil scientist but that sounds like it could also be something fungal or bacterial. High heat kills good and bad, but what does survive is then the strongest gladiator stock of something. Usually the bad stuff.

If you use the heat to treat whatever it might be, I would have a big batch of fresh worm castings or vermi-compost and all their good biology to get in there and take over right after it cools down. Maybe catch the gladiator bad guys before they regain their strength and overpopulate them. Maybe water the castings in with something simple like the recharge or another microbial innoculant. Toss in some beneficial fungi like the mico's just to be safe.

Inert soil will atract something to live there. Provide the something and know it's the good stuff ;)
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
If after that you go back to the bottle-feed nutes those will gradually become lazy and depopulate but thatt shouln't mean the bad guys take over again. Hitting it regularly with something biologic can't hurt whatever nutrient system you are using in soil or even coco. Might not help either in some cases but there ya go.
 
1

1oldfart

Insanely Active Member
H.A.F. said:
Not a soil scientist but that sounds like it could also be something fungal or bacterial. High heat kills good and bad, but what does survive is then the strongest gladiator stock of something. Usually the bad stuff.

If you use the heat to treat whatever it might be, I would have a big batch of fresh worm castings or vermi-compost and all their good biology to get in there and take over right after it cools down. Maybe catch the gladiator bad guys before they regain their strength and overpopulate them. Maybe water the castings in with something simple like the recharge or another microbial innoculant. Toss in some beneficial fungi like the mico's just to be safe.

Inert soil will atract something to live there. Provide the something and know it's the good stuff ;)
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i hate to see mites of any breed ,on my plants.
 
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