Led build

treefarmercharlie

🍆
Admin
Try to read a little bit from ledgardener.com
You should find the basic information people don't want to give you here, and some schematics to help you.

I don't think anyone here is holding back information on how to wire up his lights. It's more that people don't want to give him the wrong information. Those strips don't have any actual Samsung part numbers on them to go off of, unless I'm just missing that somehow.
 

Proud420

Active Member
Which one . ? And what's the point of the other one ? Ty just starting to get into them
I would have to look which one is doing what but basically one is for to set the setting for current regulation and the other one is for setting the voltage limit.

What I did on my setup (2 quantum boards in parallel) is to adjust the current to the value I want: either you measure the current or the light output or check the operating temperature of your boards. Set it the way it suits you.

The second potentiometer will be used as a safety:
If your driver is a CC driver outputting let say 1000mA to two boards in parallel (500mA each) it will try to output the same amount (1A) to only one board if the other is failing. This could lead to damages.

The good thing is that while the current ramps up the voltage will also go up (you should be able to find the V/I data for your boards/strips ) so if you set the second potentiometer correctly to limit the max voltage, you will therefore limit the max current.

Basically turn both pots to the max (clockwise). Becareful to use a small screwdriver and do not apply to much force as you can brake the potentiometer.
Then start to decrease the first one (Current regulation of I remember well) until you have the correct setting (current/temperature/light output)
Once you are happy with that setting, turn down (CCW) the second potentiometer until you see a voltage/current/light output drop (the one method which suits you the best).
The last step is to turn the V potentiometer a little bit the other way (CW) : first you should see an increase of current/voltage/light output and then nothing. If you stop just after it has no more effect it will be set to a voltage slightly higher than the operating one and never go over.

or you can adjust first the max voltage with a multimeter and then decrease the current to a lower operating range.
 

Proud420

Active Member
I don't think anyone here is holding back information on how to wire up his lights. It's more that people don't want to give him the wrong information. Those strips don't have any actual Samsung part numbers on them to go off of, unless I'm just missing that somehow.
I saw the driver PN and the strips label (2 rows / 24V 700-900mA)... Not sure what else you would need.
 

Proud420

Active Member
I would have to look which one is doing what but basically one is for to set the setting for current regulation and the other one is for setting the voltage limit.

What I did on my setup (2 quantum boards in parallel) is to adjust the current to the value I want: either you measure the current or the light output or check the operating temperature of your boards. Set it the way it suits you.

The second potentiometer will be used as a safety:
If your driver is a CC driver outputting let say 1000mA to two boards in parallel (500mA each) it will try to output the same amount (1A) to only one board if the other is failing. This could lead to damages.

The good thing is that while the current ramps up the voltage will also go up (you should be able to find the V/I data for your boards/strips ) so if you set the second potentiometer correctly to limit the max voltage, you will therefore limit the max current.

Basically turn both pots to the max (clockwise). Becareful to use a small screwdriver and do not apply to much force as you can brake the potentiometer.
Then start to decrease the first one (Current regulation of I remember well) until you have the correct setting (current/temperature/light output)
Once you are happy with that setting, turn down (CCW) the second potentiometer until you see a voltage/current/light output drop (the one method which suits you the best).
The last step is to turn the V potentiometer a little bit the other way (CW) : first you should see an increase of current/voltage/light output and then nothing. If you stop just after it has no more effect it will be set to a voltage slightly higher than the operating one and never go over.

or you can adjust first the max voltage with a multimeter and then decrease the current to a lower operating range.
Screenshot_20200811-172212__01.jpg
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
Ya he was quite the math and led guru.
I'm sorry but big perm sometimes came off a bit too rough for me. Want a mod? G period. Haha
But really though. Jesse taught me EVERYTHING I know. I still keep in touch and I'd never attempt this scale of build without an expert involved. I've burnt out leds just messing around with drivera I found on jobsites, labeled spares 😄....
But I think we should come up with a dc electrical theory thread?
It'll help unite our brothers that know a little but arent ready to give advice, maybe some links?
 

MtRainDog

Blümen Meister
Ya he was quite the math and led guru.
I'm sorry but big perm sometimes came off a bit too rough for me. Want a mod? G period. Haha
But really though. Jesse taught me EVERYTHING I know. I still keep in touch and I'd never attempt this scale of build without an expert involved. I've burnt out leds just messing around with drivera I found on jobsites, labeled spares 😄....
But I think we should come up with a dc electrical theory thread?
It'll help unite our brothers that know a little but arent ready to give advice, maybe some links?
Damn. I feel like the led scene here has kinda faded, and all I mean is there used to be builds all the time and lots of people participating. Multiple led threads going on any given day...
 

Opie1

Master Grower
people don't want to give you here,
There’s no one here that ‘don’t want’ to give anyone information, I’m sure it’s more like no one didn’t want to give him the ‘wrong’ information.
Contact whoever you bought it from and ask for the wiring diagram. We can make guesses all day but, without knowing the specs of everything in the circuit, it will all just be guesses. If this is from that dude on eBay, then I don't understand why he doesn't just print out the circuit on a piece of paper and send it with each kit. It would certainly save him a lot of emails from people asking how to wire them up properly.
Yeah I think he’s gonna start adding a wiring diagram with every kit, it would save everyone some time and a headache.
 
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