macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
I was wondering how the contamination thing was doing tubs, so obviously it's more difficult. Guess I better do some homework lol.
Mac's lovely ladies and some dudes too
- Thread starter macsnax
- Start date
TheSpaceFarm
DopeCaveDave
Yea it wouldn’t hurt. It’s not crazy hard, you just have to be sanitary. I wasn’t taking it that seriously and I was always super strung out on all kinds of psychedelics at the time so I’m sure a lot of my fuck ups could easily be avoided lol.
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
Lol I see doc and a few others running tubs with big holes in the sides stuffed with what looks like cotton, but I think it's something else. I'm assuming it's for air exchange?
TheSpaceFarm
DopeCaveDave
Yes air exchange without bacteria being able to get through.
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
@Cob_nUt @Chiefer888 and anyone else that's been waiting on me. Email your addy to headstashgenetics@gmail.com
jpcyan
Really Active Member
hey hey 
Nice jars max. Sorry I'm so sporadically here. Man, I'll be happy to answer anything in a thread or by pm anytime I can help. I have experience with Cubensis, panaeolous, copelandia cyan, stone producers like mexicana and psilo cyan.
That material is poly-fil (pillow stuffing) in those tubs. It is for FAE and gas exchange. As CO2 sinks and is expelled fresh air is drawn in.
Looks like you did BRF/pf cakes and have nice healthy mycelium.
Since your casing is built into the substrate, no need to break up contents. It just adds a step for potential contams to get in, Though its not that difficult. Go with what works most reliably from where you are.
Lots of ways to setup to fruit those. No right way, but plenty of ways to ensure failure.
Shroomery is a great place, but it is soooo big. I'm a member but its not the family environment you get here.
PM me and i'll send ya some good links to info. Answer questions, whatever ya need
Thanks for the kind words @spyralout. You a good dude my friend.
@yougrowyourway: pm me. Got spores.
Nice jars max. Sorry I'm so sporadically here. Man, I'll be happy to answer anything in a thread or by pm anytime I can help. I have experience with Cubensis, panaeolous, copelandia cyan, stone producers like mexicana and psilo cyan.That material is poly-fil (pillow stuffing) in those tubs. It is for FAE and gas exchange. As CO2 sinks and is expelled fresh air is drawn in.
Looks like you did BRF/pf cakes and have nice healthy mycelium.
Since your casing is built into the substrate, no need to break up contents. It just adds a step for potential contams to get in, Though its not that difficult. Go with what works most reliably from where you are.
Lots of ways to setup to fruit those. No right way, but plenty of ways to ensure failure.
Shroomery is a great place, but it is soooo big. I'm a member but its not the family environment you get here.
PM me and i'll send ya some good links to info. Answer questions, whatever ya need
Thanks for the kind words @spyralout. You a good dude my friend.
@yougrowyourway: pm me. Got spores.
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
No right way but plenty of ways to ensure failurehey hey
That material is poly-fil (pillow stuffing) in those tubs. It is for FAE and gas exchange. As CO2 sinks and is expelled fresh air is drawn in.
Looks like you did BRF/pf cakes and have nice healthy mycelium.
Since your casing is built into the substrate, no need to break up contents. It just adds a step for potential contams to get in, Though its not that difficult. Go with what works most reliably from where you are.
Lots of ways to setup to fruit those. No right way, but plenty of ways to ensure failure.
Shroomery is a great place, but it is soooo big. I'm a member but its not the family environment you get here.
PM me and i'll send ya some good links to info. Answer questions, whatever ya need
Thanks for the kind words @spyralout. You a good dude my friend.
@yougrowyourway: pm me. Got spores.
. Thanks for popping in man I appreciate it. Right now I'm trying to figure out if it's worth doing tubs. I want to crank out a bunch of these and then sit on them for a while, make a bunch of chocolates and capsules for microdosing. Is it worth the hassle to switch to tubs? Or would that add a frustrating learning curve? What precautions are necessary when breaking up substrate into a tub, similar to inoculation?
jpcyan
Really Active Member
As far as tubs/trays/casing/bulk methods go. Unless you plan on adding a nutrient rich additive as a substrate, ( well aged and pasteurized horse, cow, buffalo manure, straw or a mix of these with Coir) your yield will not really be affected too much. Just using pasteurized Coir wont add much nutrients, and every extra step adds additional time to colonize, and potential for contaminants to enter. Going to tubs also requires a learning curve on moisture levels of the substrate and the casing. Casing is not absolutely needed, but it provides a micro climate for primordia/pin formation.
A non nutritious casing layer ( pasteurized/ sterilized vermiculite) works better for me.
I prefer small tubs. Like shoe box size, and even smaller. Either as dub tubs with one flipped on top the other and a tape hinge down one of the long sides, or just a shoe box with lid. Using 1 or 2 half pints of colonized grain/brf per tub.
This way if contams strike, you dont have all your eggs in one basket.
When going from BRF cakes to a bulk sub, one method uses a 1 gallon zipock or an oven bag (if I've prepped the sub in the oven bag). Add the desired amount of pasteurized ,moistened to field capacity, substrate. Close bag. Enough to fill 1-2 inches in your tub is really all you need. Then clean the outside of a brf jar, give it a good smack to loosen the Fully colonized BRF, remove the lid and quickly, cleanly add it to the bag. The larger the tub the more jars you add accordingly. Close the bag and mix well. Breaking the BRF into pea sized pieces or so. Pour this into your cleaned, sanitized tub and cover with just a 1/4 to 1/2 inch more pasteurized substrate.
If any discoloration is seen in a jar. Do Not Use and or even open the jar.
This method limits exposure while mixing.
Once the sub has fully colonized you add a 1/2 inch or so prepped casing material.
All steps should be as sterile as possible, Keep that bottle of 91% iso alcohol handy. Use it often . Wear nitrile or latex/vinyl gloves. Work in a clean environment with as little air movement as possible.
Though BRF/PF jars can be spawned to bulk, it it designed to be used as is. That was the genius and simplicity of it when the professor made it available as a tek and using syringes. ( I started with bulk , pre-pftek, going sporeprint to agar or grain. So this is what I am more comfortable with.)
What you have now, has everything you need to produce nicely. Given the correct temps and RH levels are maintained. It will give you a feel for the process. There is no need for a giant tub as a fruiting chamber as it only makes maintaining fruiting conditions more difficult to keep steady. The poly-fil is used basically to automate the setup. Requiring less attention/ fanning for FAE. But It can also make it more difficult to maintain RH. Requiring more misting.
You can try a bit of both methods, If you have enough jars. Biggest thing is be patient, you want the brf jars FULLY colonized and then some. If you plan to break them up, any uncolonized material inside the cake is a contam magnet as soon as it is exposed to open air.
Sorry, I know thats long and I tend to ramble on. As I said there are many paths to success. Everyone eventually finds their own way. What works for me, may not be best in your situation. But If you follow the PF tek, you have good odds of producing a nice harvest. Once you have printed spores, you are set for many many more attempts. I'm happy to help where I can, and any questions I'll do my best to answer.
Good luck. and happy growing. - jpcyan
A non nutritious casing layer ( pasteurized/ sterilized vermiculite) works better for me.
I prefer small tubs. Like shoe box size, and even smaller. Either as dub tubs with one flipped on top the other and a tape hinge down one of the long sides, or just a shoe box with lid. Using 1 or 2 half pints of colonized grain/brf per tub.
This way if contams strike, you dont have all your eggs in one basket.
When going from BRF cakes to a bulk sub, one method uses a 1 gallon zipock or an oven bag (if I've prepped the sub in the oven bag). Add the desired amount of pasteurized ,moistened to field capacity, substrate. Close bag. Enough to fill 1-2 inches in your tub is really all you need. Then clean the outside of a brf jar, give it a good smack to loosen the Fully colonized BRF, remove the lid and quickly, cleanly add it to the bag. The larger the tub the more jars you add accordingly. Close the bag and mix well. Breaking the BRF into pea sized pieces or so. Pour this into your cleaned, sanitized tub and cover with just a 1/4 to 1/2 inch more pasteurized substrate.
If any discoloration is seen in a jar. Do Not Use and or even open the jar.
This method limits exposure while mixing.
Once the sub has fully colonized you add a 1/2 inch or so prepped casing material.
All steps should be as sterile as possible, Keep that bottle of 91% iso alcohol handy. Use it often . Wear nitrile or latex/vinyl gloves. Work in a clean environment with as little air movement as possible.
Though BRF/PF jars can be spawned to bulk, it it designed to be used as is. That was the genius and simplicity of it when the professor made it available as a tek and using syringes. ( I started with bulk , pre-pftek, going sporeprint to agar or grain. So this is what I am more comfortable with.)
What you have now, has everything you need to produce nicely. Given the correct temps and RH levels are maintained. It will give you a feel for the process. There is no need for a giant tub as a fruiting chamber as it only makes maintaining fruiting conditions more difficult to keep steady. The poly-fil is used basically to automate the setup. Requiring less attention/ fanning for FAE. But It can also make it more difficult to maintain RH. Requiring more misting.
You can try a bit of both methods, If you have enough jars. Biggest thing is be patient, you want the brf jars FULLY colonized and then some. If you plan to break them up, any uncolonized material inside the cake is a contam magnet as soon as it is exposed to open air.
Sorry, I know thats long and I tend to ramble on. As I said there are many paths to success. Everyone eventually finds their own way. What works for me, may not be best in your situation. But If you follow the PF tek, you have good odds of producing a nice harvest. Once you have printed spores, you are set for many many more attempts. I'm happy to help where I can, and any questions I'll do my best to answer.
Good luck. and happy growing. - jpcyan
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
Ya taking that all into account, I think I'll stick with what I'm doing until I get a good grip on this. I really like how using a bunch of jars allows for contam issues and you can still come out with something to fruit. I'm in no rush and am really enjoying learning something new, plenty of time to figure it all out as I go. I was thinking I would leave my jars for a week once they look 100% colonized. Some are considerably behind others do I've been rotating then to make sure they all get the same heat off the mat. Any fruiting tips that are handy to know? Humidity tips? At what point is it considered too much misting? I have a little air pump/mason jar gitty up for a humidifier, without anything in the tote I was hitting 60%. Not sure how much cakes will add to that, but one of my bigger concerns is being able to keep the rh high enough.As far as tubs/trays/casing/bulk methods go. Unless you plan on adding a nutrient rich additive as a substrate, ( well aged and pasteurized horse, cow, buffalo manure, straw or a mix of these with Coir) your yield will not really be affected too much. Just using pasteurized Coir wont add much nutrients, and every extra step adds additional time to colonize, and potential for contaminants to enter. Going to tubs also requires a learning curve on moisture levels of the substrate and the casing. Casing is not absolutely needed, but it provides a micro climate for primordia/pin formation.
A non nutritious casing layer ( pasteurized/ sterilized vermiculite) works better for me.
I prefer small tubs. Like shoe box size, and even smaller. Either as dub tubs with one flipped on top the other and a tape hinge down one of the long sides, or just a shoe box with lid. Using 1 or 2 half pints of colonized grain/brf per tub.
This way if contams strike, you dont have all your eggs in one basket.
When going from BRF cakes to a bulk sub, one method uses a 1 gallon zipock or an oven bag (if I've prepped the sub in the oven bag). Add the desired amount of pasteurized ,moistened to field capacity, substrate. Close bag. Enough to fill 1-2 inches in your tub is really all you need. Then clean the outside of a brf jar, give it a good smack to loosen the Fully colonized BRF, remove the lid and quickly, cleanly add it to the bag. The larger the tub the more jars you add accordingly. Close the bag and mix well. Breaking the BRF into pea sized pieces or so. Pour this into your cleaned, sanitized tub and cover with just a 1/4 to 1/2 inch more pasteurized substrate.
If any discoloration is seen in a jar. Do Not Use and or even open the jar.
This method limits exposure while mixing.
Once the sub has fully colonized you add a 1/2 inch or so prepped casing material.
All steps should be as sterile as possible, Keep that bottle of 91% iso alcohol handy. Use it often . Wear nitrile or latex/vinyl gloves. Work in a clean environment with as little air movement as possible.
Though BRF/PF jars can be spawned to bulk, it it designed to be used as is. That was the genius and simplicity of it when the professor made it available as a tek and using syringes. ( I started with bulk , pre-pftek, going sporeprint to agar or grain. So this is what I am more comfortable with.)
What you have now, has everything you need to produce nicely. Given the correct temps and RH levels are maintained. It will give you a feel for the process. There is no need for a giant tub as a fruiting chamber as it only makes maintaining fruiting conditions more difficult to keep steady. The poly-fil is used basically to automate the setup. Requiring less attention/ fanning for FAE. But It can also make it more difficult to maintain RH. Requiring more misting.
You can try a bit of both methods, If you have enough jars. Biggest thing is be patient, you want the brf jars FULLY colonized and then some. If you plan to break them up, any uncolonized material inside the cake is a contam magnet as soon as it is exposed to open air.
Sorry, I know thats long and I tend to ramble on. As I said there are many paths to success. Everyone eventually finds their own way. What works for me, may not be best in your situation. But If you follow the PF tek, you have good odds of producing a nice harvest. Once you have printed spores, you are set for many many more attempts. I'm happy to help where I can, and any questions I'll do my best to answer.
Good luck. and happy growing. - jpcyan
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
Just a quick update, I'm doing these mycelium updates more for a date on things than anything. My tote is on a 33f floor lol. I wrapped it in 1" foam board and have the heat mat in between the foam and tote. Wasn't too sure how it was going to work, but I'm pleased with the progression rate so far. Hopefully I'll be fruiting in a couple weeks 
.
.
Last edited:
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
Not many on the forums talking about subcool dying. I'll be honest I've spent the last idk how many years thinking he was a shady pos. But I'm scrolling through IG yesterday and the sheer amount of people talking about how he influenced them in a positive way has me thinking that he really did leave a positive impact on the community. I watched people say nice things about him yesterday that have never said a good thing about him. I guess when you look at the big picture, he did more good than bad and the bad he did didn't effect me anyway lol. So here's to sub, agent orange, and a lot of years in the biz 
.
.
jpcyan
Really Active Member
Your jars are looking great! Nice rhizomorphic looking healthy white mycelium!
These are the spawn run , pinning, and fruiting specs per Stamets/Chilton "The Mushroom Cultivator".
A 1-2" inch layer of wet perlite in the bottom of your fruiting tub may be all you need to get your RH. I have also successfully used hydroton in place of the perlite. You may not need the pump/jar setup.
I'll add some more info on misting, tips, specifics for the pf tek method,, and links.
You got this.
If I get time I'll do a short pictorial of what I got going on and how I'm doing it.
Spawn Run: (Where you are now with jars)
Relative Humidity: 90% (Not really an issue while colonizing your jars)
Substrate Temperature: 84-86 deg. F. Thermal death limits have been established at 106 deg. F.
Duration: 10-14 days. (This varies and usually takes a bit longer with pf jars.)
CO2: 5000-10,000 ppm.
Fresh Air Exchanges: 0 per hour.
Primordia Formation:
Relative Humidity: 95-100%
Air Temperature: 74-78 deg. F. ( note the slight drop in temps to begin pinning)
Duration: 6-10 days.
CO2: less than 5000 ppm.
Fresh Air Exchanges: 1-3 per hour.
Light: Diffuse natural or exposure for 12-16 hours/day of grow-lux type fluorescent light high in blue spectra at the 480 nanometer wavelength.
Cropping:
Relative Humidity: 85-92%.
Air Temperature: 74-78 deg. F.
CO2: less than 5000 ppm.
Fresh Air Exchanges: 1-3 per hour.
Flushing Pattern: Every 5-8 days.
Harvest Stage: When the cap becomes convex and soon after the partial veil ruptures.
Light: Indirect natural or same as above.
These are the spawn run , pinning, and fruiting specs per Stamets/Chilton "The Mushroom Cultivator".
A 1-2" inch layer of wet perlite in the bottom of your fruiting tub may be all you need to get your RH. I have also successfully used hydroton in place of the perlite. You may not need the pump/jar setup.
I'll add some more info on misting, tips, specifics for the pf tek method,, and links.
You got this.
If I get time I'll do a short pictorial of what I got going on and how I'm doing it.
Spawn Run: (Where you are now with jars)
Relative Humidity: 90% (Not really an issue while colonizing your jars)
Substrate Temperature: 84-86 deg. F. Thermal death limits have been established at 106 deg. F.
Duration: 10-14 days. (This varies and usually takes a bit longer with pf jars.)
CO2: 5000-10,000 ppm.
Fresh Air Exchanges: 0 per hour.
Primordia Formation:
Relative Humidity: 95-100%
Air Temperature: 74-78 deg. F. ( note the slight drop in temps to begin pinning)
Duration: 6-10 days.
CO2: less than 5000 ppm.
Fresh Air Exchanges: 1-3 per hour.
Light: Diffuse natural or exposure for 12-16 hours/day of grow-lux type fluorescent light high in blue spectra at the 480 nanometer wavelength.
Cropping:
Relative Humidity: 85-92%.
Air Temperature: 74-78 deg. F.
CO2: less than 5000 ppm.
Fresh Air Exchanges: 1-3 per hour.
Flushing Pattern: Every 5-8 days.
Harvest Stage: When the cap becomes convex and soon after the partial veil ruptures.
Light: Indirect natural or same as above.
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
Wow man, I wanna thank you for taking the time to educate me here. Everytime you post, you give me plenty to think about lol. One question about spawn temps, I was told to keep it under 81f for bacterial reasons. Is this something I shouldn't worry about? I've been keeping my jars at around 78, but if I could bump it up I'm sure it would speed up colonization time.Your jars are looking great! Nice rhizomorphic looking healthy white mycelium!
These are the spawn run , pinning, and fruiting specs per Stamets/Chilton "The Mushroom Cultivator".
A 1-2" inch layer of wet perlite in the bottom of your fruiting tub may be all you need to get your RH. I have also successfully used hydroton in place of the perlite. You may not need the pump/jar setup.
I'll add some more info on misting, tips, specifics for the pf tek method,, and links.
You got this.
If I get time I'll do a short pictorial of what I got going on and how I'm doing it.
Spawn Run: (Where you are now with jars)
Relative Humidity: 90% (Not really an issue while colonizing your jars)
Substrate Temperature: 84-86 deg. F. Thermal death limits have been established at 106 deg. F.
Duration: 10-14 days. (This varies and usually takes a bit longer with pf jars.)
CO2: 5000-10,000 ppm.
Fresh Air Exchanges: 0 per hour.
Primordia Formation:
Relative Humidity: 95-100%
Air Temperature: 74-78 deg. F. ( note the slight drop in temps to begin pinning)
Duration: 6-10 days.
CO2: less than 5000 ppm.
Fresh Air Exchanges: 1-3 per hour.
Light: Diffuse natural or exposure for 12-16 hours/day of grow-lux type fluorescent light high in blue spectra at the 480 nanometer wavelength.
Cropping:
Relative Humidity: 85-92%.
Air Temperature: 74-78 deg. F.
CO2: less than 5000 ppm.
Fresh Air Exchanges: 1-3 per hour.
Flushing Pattern: Every 5-8 days.
Harvest Stage: When the cap becomes convex and soon after the partial veil ruptures.
Light: Indirect natural or same as above.
TheSpaceFarm
DopeCaveDave
Yea man that shit sucks. Sub helped me out a lot when I first started growing and He influenced me to get into breeding. He had a really positive impact on a lot of people.Not many on the forums talking about subcool dying. I'll be honest I've spent the last idk how many years thinking he was a shady pos. But I'm scrolling through IG yesterday and the sheer amount of people talking about how he influenced them in a positive way has me thinking that he really did leave a positive impact on the community. I watched people say nice things about him yesterday that have never said a good thing about him. I guess when you look at the big picture, he did more good than bad and the bad he did didn't effect me anyway lol. So here's to sub, agent orange, and a lot of years in the biz
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
Ya man he influenced way more people than I thought he did, very cool direct impact on you too I see.
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
I reveg plants pretty regular and a while back I threw some plants in flower to be pollinated, but my timing was off for the male I wanted to use. So a month into flower I took clones off of each and put them into a bucket cloner. I never use it anymore, but damn it puts roots out. This @Rosinallday miracle warp male is reveged and dropping pollen like a mofo after I took cuttings at 2+ weeks. Should have been paying attention and picking his sacks early, but here we are lol. His pollen is dropping on these clones and they're making seeds while they're flippin rooting!! I was taking a bunch of clones for rockwool and was in clone mode so I decided to see how long it would take to root after 3+ weeks of flower. There's a cutoff point and every plant is different, but I would like figure out some kind of visual key that would let me know if it's gone too far and will have to reveg. Seems to be around the time buds start stacking a lil, but nothing jumps out at me lol. Anyone have their own experiences in this area, thoughts?
Sorry about the blurple pics, they work pretty good for clones, reveg, and if you ever need to slow a plant down
.
Sorry about the blurple pics, they work pretty good for clones, reveg, and if you ever need to slow a plant down
.
Last edited:
yougrowyourway
illgrowmyway
Oooo brother what you crossing?? I just took flowering clones that were about 4 maybe 5 weeks in like a month ago. They all rooted and revegged.I reveg plants pretty regular and a while back I threw some plants in flower to be pollinated, but my timing was off for the male I wanted to use. So a month into flower I took clones off of each and put them into a bucket cloner. I never use it anymore, but damn it puts roots out. This @Rosinallday miracle warp male is reveged and dropping pollen like a mofo after I took cuttings at 2+ weeks. Should have been paying attention and picking his sacks early, but here we are lol. His pollen is dropping on these clones and they're making seeds while they're flippin rooting!! I was taking a bunch of clones for rockwool and was in clone mode so I decided to see how long it would take to root after 3+ weeks of flower. There's a cutoff point and every plant is different, but I would like figure out some kind of visual key that would let me know if it's gone too far and will have to reveg. Seems to be around the time buds start stacking a lil, but nothing jumps out at me lol. Anyone have their own experiences in this area, thoughts?
Sorry about the blurple pics, they work pretty good for clones, reveg, and if you ever need to slow a plant down
View attachment 47345View attachment 47346View attachment 47347View attachment 47348
Attachments
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
Nice nice, how long did they take to root for ya? ....... I'm working on some apple crosses atm lol.
jpcyan
Really Active Member
78ºF is fine. I usually try to stay right around 80º. A couple degree increase might speed it up a bit, but it looks good now.
There shouldn't be any bacteria present if they were properly sterilized. But it's true, higher temps will allow any that survived to go crazy.
The thing is, while in the jars, if there is bacteria in there, it is there regardless of temps. It will show up eventually, or you'll notice areas that just wont colonize.
Did you steam sterilize or use a pressure cooker? How did you do your lids? Any filtration or just sealed/taped holes?
Keep updating good stuff max, loving the green pics too.
There shouldn't be any bacteria present if they were properly sterilized. But it's true, higher temps will allow any that survived to go crazy.
The thing is, while in the jars, if there is bacteria in there, it is there regardless of temps. It will show up eventually, or you'll notice areas that just wont colonize.
Did you steam sterilize or use a pressure cooker? How did you do your lids? Any filtration or just sealed/taped holes?
Keep updating
good stuff max, loving the green pics too.
macsnax
PICK YOUR OWN
I thought the same thing. If there isn't bacteria in there, where would it come from? Lol it's still new to me so I try to follow the rules. Once I get comfortable I'll start putting my own twist on things. And I bought these jars pre sterilized just like they look now, but without the mycelium. They have 4 little holes in the lid just big enough for the syrenge, never had to open them, and the reason for the foil over the lids. The kit I bought is definitely geared toward helping people that don't know what they're doing lol. Think I'll buy an electric pressure cooker soon, what should I do for a good substrate recipe?78ºF is fine. I usually try to stay right around 80º. A couple degree increase might speed it up a bit, but it looks good now.
There shouldn't be any bacteria present if they were properly sterilized. But it's true, higher temps will allow any that survived to go crazy.
The thing is, while in the jars, if there is bacteria in there, it is there regardless of temps. It will show up eventually, or you'll notice areas that just wont colonize.
Did you steam sterilize or use a pressure cooker? How did you do your lids? Any filtration or just sealed/taped holes?
Keep updating