Led build

Frame will have side 1 and 2...each heat sink will be numbered 1A , 1B and so on...or at least should. Drop a line in each + and then the other side to wagos. Then a wire in each - and connect other side to wagos. per half of the count of strips you have. Those will then go into 1 of the driver +/-.....repeat again for the other half of strips and run that to the other +/- on the driver.
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
Well this thread didn't go quite the way I had planned but I am now learning about leds and drivers. I kinda needed a refresher on electrical theory anyway. I diag and fix circuits almost everyday (mechanic by trade) I just don't design new ones. So learning this stuff is bringing back some old memories.



Didn't even get the frame built last night. Figured I'd get the discussion going before I really needed the info just didn't realize I was going to drag my feet. Lol. Hopefully tonight will go better.



I did get ahold of the seller and am waiting for an email. My guess is to turn volts down on driver. Probably the only one that large that was available at the time. I'll be curious how his wiring compares to the mess I came up with last night. Lol
Do ya know how to solder?
Do ya have a dimmer? Potentiometer?
I got to thinking last night. Its a constant current driver. Doesn't the dimmer lower the mA then? It may go down a little in voltage. But probably not 6 v
 

Streetpro09

Tester
Do ya know how to solder?
Do ya have a dimmer? Potentiometer?
I got to thinking last night. Its a constant current driver. Doesn't the dimmer lower the mA then? It may go down a little in voltage. But probably not 6 v
Yeah they might have taught me how to solder when I learned to fix automotive circuits. Scotch locks don't work too well in the elements. (If you didn't know Scotch locks are the automotive equivalent of wagos.)

To my limited understanding there are two adjustments built into this driver. I assume one is for volts and the other amps.
 

treefarmercharlie

🍆
Admin
Yeah they might have taught me how to solder when I learned to fix automotive circuits. Scotch locks don't work too well in the elements. (If you didn't know Scotch locks are the automotive equivalent of wagos.)

To my limited understanding there are two adjustments built into this driver. I assume one is for volts and the other amps.
Contact whoever you bought it from and ask for the wiring diagram. We can make guesses all day but, without knowing the specs of everything in the circuit, it will all just be guesses. If this is from that dude on eBay, then I don't understand why he doesn't just print out the circuit on a piece of paper and send it with each kit. It would certainly save him a lot of emails from people asking how to wire them up properly.
 
Contact whoever you bought it from and ask for the wiring diagram. We can make guesses all day but, without knowing the specs of everything in the circuit, it will all just be guesses. If this is from that dude on eBay, then I don't understand why he doesn't just print out the circuit on a piece of paper and send it with each kit. It would certainly save him a lot of emails from people asking how to wire them up properly.
He emailed me my diagrams needed.
 

Turpman

PICK YOUR OWN
900ma x 26 rows = 23.4A so watch the heat if your thinking of running wide open. May get toasty may not with the heat sinks.
And @ 24V strips it is definatly a parallel circuit. So 1/2 of the stripps to one side 1/2 to the other side.
What i did is run one thick wire for + and - down each side of the strips and solder a short thinner wier off of those 2 to each strip. Basically it Ts off at each strip.
 
Oh, I see what you meant now, and that's good too! I've been thinking about looking into his offerings for my small tent.
As you can see...his name is thrown around alot here and I am sure you are starting to see more and more of his kits pop up. I bought 2 of the 615 watt kits. I could have saved a ton if I was able to build the frame but my location and such didnt allow me to build one and paying a little extra was just easier. Anyways...I started with LED and still use LED only, using his lights were the first time I ever fried a plant and I was 18in above at 100%. I am down around 50% now and the ladies are LOVING IT. I hit all over on spectrum too. Like I said, we are working on my 3rd kit from him but I am changing out a few strips and placing them a little closer together in my 3x3 for a more "direct" coverage while still having an even coverage throughout the tent. He wont push any products on you either....he will ask your needs and then give suggestions and you go from there. Dude is fucking awesome. My new light though instead of having red's and blues on every other strip....will have all reds and blues on 1 strip and nothing else. I am curious to see how they work and if I dont like em I can just buy a single strip led to swap out.
 

Proud420

Active Member
Try to read a little bit from ledgardener.com
You should find the basic information people don't want to give you here, and some schematics to help you.

 
Try to read a little bit from ledgardener.com
You should find the basic information people don't want to give you here, and some schematics to help you.

Sure wish I seen that diagram building my first one lol....
 

Proud420

Active Member
First of all, be sure to understand what you are doing when you start doing diy electronics... Even if the risk of high voltage is limited with the kind of driver you have, there is always some risks with electricity.



It is a constant current (and constant voltage) driver up to 20A and delivering up to 30V.
Your strips have a forward voltage of 24V so you have no choice, you can't do any kind of series (2 strips in series would need a driver able to deliver at least 48V).
So you should wire two sets of 7 boards in parallel for each of the two output.

You should find two small screws on the back bellow some black rubber protection. It will enable you to set the operating current and the voltage limit to switch to voltage mode (and protect your strips of overheating because of an overcurrent in case some strips are failing/disconnected)
 

sfrigon1

Seed Aficionado
First of all, be sure to understand what you are doing when you start doing diy electronics... Even if the risk of high voltage is limited with the kind of driver you have, there is always some risks with electricity.



It is a constant current (and constant voltage) driver up to 20A and delivering up to 30V.
Your strips have a forward voltage of 24V so you have no choice, you can't do any kind of series (2 strips in series would need a driver able to deliver at least 48V).
So you should wire two sets of 7 boards in parallel for each of the two output.

You should find two small screws on the back bellow some black rubber protection. It will enable you to set the operating current and the voltage limit to switch to voltage mode (and protect your strips of overheating because of an overcurrent in case some strips are failing/disconnected)
Can u elaborate on the two dif screws u can turn up and down . Been trying to figure this out 😁, one is current and one Is voltage. Like how should I turn her down ?
 
Top