QB132 V2 Quantum Boards × 1 V2 3000K

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
Also, be safe when measuring the current.

Set your space up first. Power disconnected. Then, after power is disconnected, hook up your multimeter to the cct so it doesn't move around even if bumped lightly, its best if you can plug the 2 ends of the open cct directly into the multimeter, or use alligator clamps. Then after you have your multimeter in series rotate your multimeter dial to the 10A position (make sure the multimeter probe is in the 10A hole, or the end of the cct goes in the 10A hole), and then finally power your cct, or plug the driver in.


Here's a quick example of measuring current.

3v battery pack "+" goes through multimeter, then through 1kΩ POT, then through red LED, and then back to battery pack "-." You can see here where I've broken the cct or opened the loop, and the 2 leads lay dangling to the left of multimeter. They have duct tape on them so when I insert them into the multimeter holes they make a solid connection and stay in place. With low power its not such a big deal but if this were a 600h(?) then ya it matters. Just safer.
View attachment 5864

Close up of the path of the current, from "+" of battery through POT, through LED, to "-"
View attachment 5865

View attachment 5866

I only measured the current of a small battery pack, so my max current selection on the multimeter was 200mA, if I were measuring over 200mA+ then I'd have to switch the hole where the red positive wire is in this pic below to the 10A hole on the far right instead of in the middle, and then Id rotate the dial to the 10A position.
View attachment 5867
How do u make these cool diagrams!! U missed your calling brother!
My grow is at a friends nearby so sometimes I get a chance to hangout and do experiments or tests on the environment. But its hard because after I make the changes I leave.
I took both driverrs out of the tent and turned up the intake 4" hydrofarm with makeup ambient air.
The 4 " hydrofarm with the carbon filter is on 24 7 becaise of smell. I have it vented out thw only exit from the basement. Naturally the dryer vent.
U can see wherre AC would be a problem in a basement. So I am trying to run this as long as possible without adding an AC.
Temps max reached 84.
I know if i keep it up its gonna affect yoeld and maybe hermie the whole lot of em.
Been there, met Herm. I didnt like him hahaha
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
I just hit up,the hydro shop and showed dude a picture of my light. He said it would sit in his store and gatger dust because its not pretty enough. Fucker. I guess he's right. Ive built mine so far with purpose and parts I had on hand.
Nothing pretty and most of all done fast.
I use a reciprocating sawzall for instance and no rivets and no reflectors or even heat shrinks. Bare bones. But shiiittt. Hes right. Its ugly ha
 

Jesselikes2Grow

Master Builder
Site Supporter
SEEDSMAN amnesia auto.
By far the stinkiest stickiest auto I have ever ran!!
Don't. Overlook seedsman genetics.
If you read there website it explains that they are the third party and the actual breeders wish to remain anonymous.
Me being the imaginative guy I am , I can just imagine some old hippie, sitting in his garage supplementing his social security by creating beautiful genetics. Of xourse in his garage with a doob in the mouth jamming some hall and oates!
Haha, your probably not far from being correct in your imaginings. Lmfao. Probably a group of em. lol

I just hit up,the hydro shop and showed dude a picture of my light. He said it would sit in his store and gatger dust because its not pretty enough. Fucker. I guess he's right. Ive built mine so far with purpose and parts I had on hand.
Nothing pretty and most of all done fast.
I use a reciprocating sawzall for instance and no rivets and no reflectors or even heat shrinks. Bare bones. But shiiittt. Hes right. Its ugly ha
It grows some good weed though and that's really all that matters. 😎😎😎
Plants don't care what the light looks like. Lmfao.
If they did my veg room would be a withered CO field of brown plants with the kitchen sink light. Lmfao. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
 

shimz

vapest
You can get the lights to run cooler by increasing the area over which the power is applied (ie, same wattage, but more chips or more boards, = cooler temps). Although you can't make the driver run cooler, so if you keep the drivers outside the tent you'll manage inside ambient easier.
I'm sorry, but I can't let this slide. In the scenario you describe, since the input power remains the same, the heat output would remain exactly the same. Yes, you could relocate the driver to remove that portion of the heat load.
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
I'm sorry, but I can't let this slide. In the scenario you describe, since the input power remains the same, the heat output would remain exactly the same. Yes, you could relocate the driver to remove that portion of the heat load.
He means having more wattage than I need and turning em down.
 

IrocZ

Grower
I'm sorry, but I can't let this slide. In the scenario you describe, since the input power remains the same, the heat output would remain exactly the same. Yes, you could relocate the driver to remove that portion of the heat load.
I firmly disagree.

The heat output will go down when adding more boards to the same driver. If input power is 240 watts with 4 boards @60 watts each, running 8 boards @30 watts each(same 240 watts) will run cooler.
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
I firmly disagree.

The heat output will go down when adding more boards to the same driver. If input power is 240 watts with 4 boards @60 watts each, running 8 boards @30 watts each(same 240 watts) will run cooler.
Dude he was saying more boards and more drivers duh.
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
Ok mine is 75 watts MAX! They obviously dont get run at that shit thw recommwnded driver is only,240 watts. From hlg website.
He is,saying run another setup and have the driver turned down. An led creates mlre heat thw more watts going through.
My qb132 can handle 75 but when,I,had my 240 watt driver turned all thw way up,u bet ur ass they git hotter. I,have em,down to 75% or around 200 w per light and the ambient Temp of the room is a perfect 75.
If I,wanted to get up to the recommended 600 watts for my tent then I can add an identical setup and the watts would,be 600 with all three lights turned down. But i want a qb288 r spec. They have a max rating of
VDC Current (mA) Watts at Board Lm/W at Board (55C) μmoles/joule at Board (55C)
45.72 500 22.86 206 3.00
46.98 1050 49.33 196.10 2.85
47.70 1400 66.78 190.50 2.77
48.96 2100 102.82 180.77 2.63
49.50 2400 118.80 177.50 2.58
49.86 2800 139.60 173.80 2.53
Wowwwww 140 watts!!!
Shit man
 
I'm sorry, but I can't let this slide. In the scenario you describe, since the input power remains the same, the heat output would remain exactly the same. Yes, you could relocate the driver to remove that portion of the heat load.
Couple things. Firstly, I think you're talking about the total energy of the system. I'd agree with you in that sense. The energy doesn't go away, it's still conserved. Secondly, the grow room is not a closed system.

When you double your QBs from 8 to 4 but still run 600w on the driver, the area that the 600w is now being dissipated by is doubled. The thermal energy or heat per QB is halved. Also because of the reduced heat and per chip current flow, more light is produced per watt than before. So while maintaining the 1st law of thermodynamics we see that the intial thermal produced is less than previously realized and because the tent is not an absolute barrier (light energy is convected out) reducing the amount of initial thermal produced can make it locally cooler than previously, even though the total energy of the system is conserved.

Heat is conducted to the heatsink and then convected to the air. The rate at which the thermal energy is transferred depends on the size of the gradient.

The density of air is small. At 1.225kg/m3 a 4x4x7ft tent has ~3.85kg of air, a 10x10x8 room has ~27.75kg of air. 600w equals to 600J/s. Air has a Cp (specific heat capacity) of ~1. So to move the tent air 1°C we need 3.85kJ of energy, and to move the room air 1°C we need 27.75kJ of energy. In 1 min 600w produces 36kJ of energy.

Obviously there's more in the system than just air. The heatsinks absorb energy, the tent absorbs energy, the plants, the pots, everything, grow room walls, everything, they all conduct thermal throughout themselves and convect to the outside as well. You can see at 36kJ/min the tent should be on fire within the hr lol (36kJ × 60min = 2,160kJ) ... So its really hard to apply theoretical thermo without knowing all the variables, Cp's and thermal conductivities masses, ect. Though judging based off of initial thermal production seems to have the most consistent correlation to ambient and is supported by the real world measurements of cooler temps with less concentrated power. The rate at which the energy is transferred into thermal and the rate at which the system conducts thermal away matters.
Screenshot_2019-05-21-02-44-03~2.png
airprop.gif

EDIT:
3.79kg/gal water
0.00379m3/gallon of water
Cp of water = 76 kJ/kg·K°

~288kJ to move 0.00379m3 of water 1°C
~27kJ to move ~22m3 of air

~76,000.00kJ to raise 1m3 of water 1°C
~1.22kJ to raise 1m3 of air 1°C

A small change in energy being added to 1m3 of air is much more noticeable than a small change in energy being added to 1m3 of water. The less energy being convected or transferred to the air intially the lower the ambient temp. If light is shining on walls the air is not absorbing the light energy. Air absorbs visible light poorly.
transmission.jpg
 
Last edited:

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
Couple things. Firstly, I think you're talking about the total energy of the system. I'd agree with you in that sense. The energy doesn't go away, it's still conserved. Secondly, the grow room is not a closed system.

When you double your QBs from 8 to 4 but still run 600w on the driver, the area that the 600w is now being dissipated by is doubled. The thermal energy or heat per QB is halved. Also because of the reduced heat and per chip current flow, more light is produced per watt than before. So while maintaining the 1st law of thermodynamics we see that the intial thermal produced is less than previously realized and because the tent is not an absolute barrier (light energy is convected out) reducing the amount of initial thermal produced can make it locally cooler than previously, even though the total energy of the system is conserved.

Heat is conducted to the heatsink and then convected to the air. The rate at which the thermal energy is transferred depends on the size of the gradient.

The density of air is small. At 1.225kg/m3 a 4x4x7ft tent has ~3.85kg of air, a 10x10x8 room has ~27.75kg of air. 600w equals to 600J/s. Air has a Cp (specific heat capacity) of ~1. So to move the tent air 1°C we need 3.85kJ of energy, and to move the room air 1°C we need 27.75kJ of energy. In 1 min 600w produces 36kJ of energy.

Obviously there's more in the system than just air. The heatsinks absorb energy, the tent absorbs energy, the plants, the pots, everything, grow room walls, everything, they all conduct thermal throughout themselves and convect to the outside as well. You can see at 36kJ/min the tent should be on fire within the hr lol (36kJ × 60min = 2,160kJ) ... So its really hard to apply theoretical thermo without knowing all the variables, Cp's and thermal conductivities masses, ect. Though judging based off of initial thermal production seems to have the most consistent correlation to ambient and is supported by the real world measurements of cooler temps with less concentrated power. The rate at which the energy is transferred into thermal and the rate at which the system conducts thermal away matters.
View attachment 7031
View attachment 7032

EDIT:
3.79kg/gal water
0.00379m3/gallon of water
Cp of water = 76 kJ/kg·K°

~288kJ to move 0.00379m3 of water 1°C
~27kJ to move ~22m3 of air

~76,000.00kJ to raise 1m3 of water 1°C
~1.22kJ to raise 1m3 of air 1°C

A small change in energy being added to 1m3 of air is much more noticeable than a small change in energy being added to 1m3 of water. The less energy being convected or transferred to the air intially the lower the ambient temp. If light is shining on walls the air is not absorbing the light energy. Air absorbs visible light poorly.
View attachment 7036
Yahoooi!!!!
I knew someone could do it!!
I was trying to feed my 4 month old and make mama happy, but I couldnt fight the urge to try and explain it. Thanks @chief you have a way with words!
 
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