State of LEDs, OSRAM, SAMSUNG, CREE, PHILIPS, ETC

NoWaistedSpace

PICK YOUR OWN
Yeah according to the Doctorate researcher I listend to, plants have been known to accept up to 1400 umol/s. Veg requirements are generally less than flower, BUT, they found that slowly increasing the light intensity to a tolerable amount in veg That your plants can tolerate thickened stalks and resulted in more biomass and phytochemicals into flower. I would keep light intensity to an amount your electric bill can afford balanced to the amount your plants can tolerate throughout the entire grow.
Anything over 1000, You introduce CO2 into the system. I start them in flower about 750 and let them acclimate and grow into the higher intensity. I will peg mine in around 11 or 1200 umol/s. My room is always 2x's higher CO2 levels than normal. My organic soil breaking down by microbes will create CO2 right in the room.
800-900 umol/s is good spot to be.
You know, there are always variables to consider. lol
 

DET—PDX

Insanely Active Member
Anything over 1000, You introduce CO2 into the system. I start them in flower about 750 and let them acclimate and grow into the higher intensity. I will peg mine in around 11 or 1200 umol/s. My room is always 2x's higher CO2 levels than normal. My organic soil breaking down by microbes will create CO2 right in the room.
800-900 umol/s is good spot to be.
You know, there are always variables to consider. lol
Good point! I forgot to mention they accounted for Co2. I tend to trust these guys and their experiments because now they have a lot of funding in 2019, and they’re cannabis enthusiasts that genuinely want to grow the best pot they can. That 900 u/mol you have is spot on according to the Dr. I listened to. They found 1000 umol was the best yielding intensity for the energy cost of running it. Bascially it was for large grow operations looking to be highly yield and cost effecient, but it can still apply to small grows.
 
Actually, Fluence Bio-engineering is a division of OSRAM, they started off with using OSRAM diodes and a meanwell driver. It is common knowledge for the past 2 years for people that have been following the industry with a close eye that Fluence moved away from meanwell driver and now using a different driver (Cheaper more efficient), and they switched their diodes to Samsung full spectrum diodes and OSRAM reds.

Samsung's LM301B is just better than anything osram can offer currently in full spectrum for efficiency and efficacy.

2019 is a different year for horticulture and the big companies like samsung, osram, cree, philips luminus, all see the financial potential for developing diodes for horticulture. They will be going in hard competing to bring the best price to performance diodes, kind of what happened to the harddrive industry when SSDs was first introduced. Research and development for horticulture diodes is moving at a rapid pace.

Simply don't believe the market hype.
No "branding" really have such a thing as "quality" diodes. Diodes are binned like CPUs in a sealed testing sphere which reflects 99.9% of light wavelengths. Then depending on their binned catagory for different light temperatures and spectrum out, as well as power usage they are moved to different "categories"

2700k, 3500k, 4000k etc. Even at these color temperatures you have CRI ratings 80, 90 etc (which is closest true to how colour is perceived of an object it shines on) CRI ratings is important for photographers and videographers because it makes a day and night different which combination of lighting you use with a certain CRI rating and colour temperature.)

Indoor Horticulture with LEDs just happened to be people that experimented with different diodes on the market and got different results and built lights accordingly. There was NO LED specifically developed for horticulture until 2018. All the previous LEDs lights just happened, through trial and error, to be diodes suitable for growing indoors that is more efficient than HPS, CMH etc because LEDs can be developed to target specific light wavelengths which is required for photosynthesis with a combination of different colour temperatures.

If you want to do proper DIY with diodes, do a little research on which diodes you want to use as they are wallet dependent, some are easier to get a hold of than others, even the older samsung lm561c S6 binned diodes is extremely cheap now and comes in different colour temperatures at different wavelength.
2700k (flower)
3000k,3500k (full cycle veg to flower)
4000k and up (veg)

for drivers (power supplies) bigger than 240 watts i would recommend a inventronics driver for the following reasons.
Cheaper than meanwell,
becomes way more efficient than meanwell at higher wattages
can do everything meanwell drivers do in most cases better and cheaper
fluence uses inventronics driver and not meanwell, they dropped meanwell years ago because meanwell had a monopoly on the market and charged exhorbant prices.

Basically what I'm getting at with this post. I really want peeps to dig deep into these topics and do research the information is there. If you can access the internet you have access to the same information I and many other researchers have. Learn about it with passion to understand. No one can bullshit you if you have the same or more knowledge.

I in no means am bashing anyone or any company in this post, it is open knowledge.

Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day, teach a man to fish and he will have food for the rest of his life.
Cool thread, but who quotes someone to start a new thread though? It's been a couple years since I nerded out so you're right my knowledge is admittedly dated, but why not just reply to the thread in question, or start this thread without my quote?

I'm not taking anything personally btw and honestly appreciate you sharing the knowledge.. I have just never seen this before.. and don't personally understand why someone would use a quote as innocuous as that to start a new thread.

lol with that off my chest, thanks again for the info.. just not sure what my quote added to all this?

:geek:
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Drunk on Knowledge
Cool thread, but who quotes someone to start a new thread though? It's been a couple years since I nerded out so you're right my knowledge is admittedly dated, but why not just reply to the thread in question, or start this thread without my quote?

I'm not taking anything personally btw and honestly appreciate you sharing the knowledge.. I have just never seen this before.. and don't personally understand why someone would use a quote as innocuous as that to start a new thread.

lol with that off my chest, thanks again for the info.. just not sure what my quote added to all this?

:geek:
Lmao I was looking all over for the first page of the thread, with that quote I thought I was pages deep..

Good point! I forgot to mention they accounted for Co2. I tend to trust these guys and their experiments because now they have a lot of funding in 2019, and they’re cannabis enthusiasts that genuinely want to grow the best pot they can. That 900 u/mol you have is spot on according to the Dr. I listened to. They found 1000 umol was the best yielding intensity for the energy cost of running it. Bascially it was for large grow operations looking to be highly yield and cost effecient, but it can still apply to small grows.
Dr Allison Justice?

Haha ya I recomend 700 min but generally 900-1000 without CO2 and my personal target. Btw at high intensities, I believe past 1100, you're going to want to start supplementing with green instead of white or red. Green supplementation has better photosynthetic rates at high intensities than red supplementation.

EDIT:
Idk why I always think 1100, but it looks more like past 425 PPFD on the adaxial side of the leaf is begining to favor green instead of red. Even earlier on the abaxial side.
Screenshot_2019-04-11-13-41-10~2.png
Screenshot_2019-04-11-13-40-48~2.png
smLeafOrientation.jpg
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Nyaga

Junior Soil Food Web Consultant
Cool thread, but who quotes someone to start a new thread though? It's been a couple years since I nerded out so you're right my knowledge is admittedly dated, but why not just reply to the thread in question, or start this thread without my quote?

I'm not taking anything personally btw and honestly appreciate you sharing the knowledge.. I have just never seen this before.. and don't personally understand why someone would use a quote as innocuous as that to start a new thread.

lol with that off my chest, thanks again for the info.. just not sure what my quote added to all this?

:geek:
1st Question: I do.

2nd Question: My post would have been irrelevant to your thread, so I quoted you with the relevant post to fast track engagement on the thread as it highlights the difference between information we have as growers of all levels and how people are target marketed towards buying expensive well branded products.

3rd Question: It was important to me that the information shared in the thread stays relevant to this specific thread as so much information of good posts is lost pretty quickly for new people joining and people wanting to share important info.

Currently I like the info currently shared in this thread. There is very good tables and info shared on the thread. Yeah KIS has podcasts and a lot of info like many other sources. There is some good books to read.

As stated up to 1000PPFD would be safe without CO2, which is perfect for hobbyists/small growers. If you have a good medium with lots of carbon material in well composted material + microbial life it would be good enough to expect above average yields with better to excellent terps.

I do think the days of HPS/CMH is becomimg limited and I'm expecting 30-50% price cuts on these in the next 2 years as LED take over.

Even Gavita released their LED alternative but more a design between T5/T8 Bulbs and LED bars. guess what, its priced for corporate cannabis grow ops not for small growers. same as fluence etc. Their target market is profit margin & big sales.

I would like to see small growers get more involved in understanding why they have to choose one LED over another, PSU over another, simple grade 8 or lower science (electrical circuitry) it is simple stuff guys and you don't have to throw thousands of dollars at well branded products, if the curiosity kicks in, learn build a small DIY LED light setup for your clones or seedlings to test the waters how difficult it was. and build up from there.

understand how photosynthesis works,
how light spectrum works so you can read a chart easier,
and learn microbial life in soil and you should be able to grow dank bud out of a shoe box.
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
1st Question: I do.

2nd Question: My post would have been irrelevant to your thread, so I quoted you with the relevant post to fast track engagement on the thread as it highlights the difference between information we have as growers of all levels and how people are target marketed towards buying expensive well branded products.

3rd Question: It was important to me that the information shared in the thread stays relevant to this specific thread as so much information of good posts is lost pretty quickly for new people joining and people wanting to share important info.

Currently I like the info currently shared in this thread. There is very good tables and info shared on the thread. Yeah KIS has podcasts and a lot of info like many other sources. There is some good books to read.

As stated up to 1000PPFD would be safe without CO2, which is perfect for hobbyists/small growers. If you have a good medium with lots of carbon material in well composted material + microbial life it would be good enough to expect above average yields with better to excellent terps.

I do think the days of HPS/CMH is becomimg limited and I'm expecting 30-50% price cuts on these in the next 2 years as LED take over.

Even Gavita released their LED alternative but more a design between T5/T8 Bulbs and LED bars. guess what, its priced for corporate cannabis grow ops not for small growers. same as fluence etc. Their target market is profit margin & big sales.

I would like to see small growers get more involved in understanding why they have to choose one LED over another, PSU over another, simple grade 8 or lower science (electrical circuitry) it is simple stuff guys and you don't have to throw thousands of dollars at well branded products, if the curiosity kicks in, learn build a small DIY LED light setup for your clones or seedlings to test the waters how difficult it was. and build up from there.

understand how photosynthesis works,
how light spectrum works so you can read a chart easier,
and learn microbial life in soil and you should be able to grow dank bud out of a shoe box.
Exactly!!
My friends here are enthusiasts who have the interest in led. But we have made it over complicated for a simple hobbyist.
The average consumer doesnt want the frills and the hoopla that goes along with it, but these seem to be the companies that have such a fanatic following.
I like the opposing views and relating charts to the common folk in lamens terms, so we can all understand and figure out a happy medium ☺☺
 
1st Question: I do.

2nd Question: My post would have been irrelevant to your thread, so I quoted you with the relevant post to fast track engagement on the thread as it highlights the difference between information we have as growers of all levels and how people are target marketed towards buying expensive well branded products.

3rd Question: It was important to me that the information shared in the thread stays relevant to this specific thread as so much information of good posts is lost pretty quickly for new people joining and people wanting to share important info.

Currently I like the info currently shared in this thread. There is very good tables and info shared on the thread. Yeah KIS has podcasts and a lot of info like many other sources. There is some good books to read.

As stated up to 1000PPFD would be safe without CO2, which is perfect for hobbyists/small growers. If you have a good medium with lots of carbon material in well composted material + microbial life it would be good enough to expect above average yields with better to excellent terps.

I do think the days of HPS/CMH is becomimg limited and I'm expecting 30-50% price cuts on these in the next 2 years as LED take over.

Even Gavita released their LED alternative but more a design between T5/T8 Bulbs and LED bars. guess what, its priced for corporate cannabis grow ops not for small growers. same as fluence etc. Their target market is profit margin & big sales.

I would like to see small growers get more involved in understanding why they have to choose one LED over another, PSU over another, simple grade 8 or lower science (electrical circuitry) it is simple stuff guys and you don't have to throw thousands of dollars at well branded products, if the curiosity kicks in, learn build a small DIY LED light setup for your clones or seedlings to test the waters how difficult it was. and build up from there.

understand how photosynthesis works,
how light spectrum works so you can read a chart easier,
and learn microbial life in soil and you should be able to grow dank bud out of a shoe box.
My questions were mostly rhetorical, unless you had decent answers I hadn't considered.. and even your own dumb ass "answers" fail to answer the real question of.. why use my quote to start a thread? You say

...

2nd Question: My post would have been irrelevant to your thread, so I quoted you with the relevant post to fast track engagement on the thread as it highlights the difference between information we have as growers of all levels and how people are target marketed towards buying expensive well branded products.

3rd Question: It was important to me that the information shared in the thread stays relevant to this specific thread as so much information of good posts is lost pretty quickly for new people joining and people wanting to share important info.
...
and then start a thread with an "irrelevant" quote??

I'm just saying you could have accomplished all you set out to without pulling my quote out of nowhere and taking it completely away from context.. If you can't see how that's not something most people do, well I guess I understand why you would feel it appropriate to do in the first place.

Best of luck with your thread bro
 
Last edited:

SSGrower

Average Grower
My questions were mostly rhetorical, unless you had decent answers I hadn't considered.. and even your own dumb ass "answers" fail to answer the real question of.. why use my quote to start a thread? You say



and then start a thread with an "irrelevant" quote??

I'm just saying you could have accomplished all you set out to without pulling my quote out of nowhere and taking it completely away from context.. If you can't see how that's not something most people do, well I guess I understand why you would feel it appropriate to do in the first place.

Best of luck with your thread bro
Agreed quite odd.
 

dstroy

Insanely Active Member
Actually, Fluence Bio-engineering is a division of OSRAM, they started off with using OSRAM diodes and a meanwell driver. It is common knowledge for the past 2 years for people that have been following the industry with a close eye that Fluence moved away from meanwell driver and now using a different driver (Cheaper more efficient), and they switched their diodes to Samsung full spectrum diodes and OSRAM reds.

Samsung's LM301B is just better than anything osram can offer currently in full spectrum for efficiency and efficacy.

2019 is a different year for horticulture and the big companies like samsung, osram, cree, philips luminus, all see the financial potential for developing diodes for horticulture. They will be going in hard competing to bring the best price to performance diodes, kind of what happened to the harddrive industry when SSDs was first introduced. Research and development for horticulture diodes is moving at a rapid pace.

Simply don't believe the market hype.
No "branding" really have such a thing as "quality" diodes. Diodes are binned like CPUs in a sealed testing sphere which reflects 99.9% of light wavelengths. Then depending on their binned catagory for different light temperatures and spectrum out, as well as power usage they are moved to different "categories"

2700k, 3500k, 4000k etc. Even at these color temperatures you have CRI ratings 80, 90 etc (which is closest true to how colour is perceived of an object it shines on) CRI ratings is important for photographers and videographers because it makes a day and night different which combination of lighting you use with a certain CRI rating and colour temperature.)

Indoor Horticulture with LEDs just happened to be people that experimented with different diodes on the market and got different results and built lights accordingly. There was NO LED specifically developed for horticulture until 2018. All the previous LEDs lights just happened, through trial and error, to be diodes suitable for growing indoors that is more efficient than HPS, CMH etc because LEDs can be developed to target specific light wavelengths which is required for photosynthesis with a combination of different colour temperatures.

If you want to do proper DIY with diodes, do a little research on which diodes you want to use as they are wallet dependent, some are easier to get a hold of than others, even the older samsung lm561c S6 binned diodes is extremely cheap now and comes in different colour temperatures at different wavelength.
2700k (flower)
3000k,3500k (full cycle veg to flower)
4000k and up (veg)

for drivers (power supplies) bigger than 240 watts i would recommend a inventronics driver for the following reasons.
Cheaper than meanwell,
becomes way more efficient than meanwell at higher wattages
can do everything meanwell drivers do in most cases better and cheaper
fluence uses inventronics driver and not meanwell, they dropped meanwell years ago because meanwell had a monopoly on the market and charged exhorbant prices.

Basically what I'm getting at with this post. I really want peeps to dig deep into these topics and do research the information is there. If you can access the internet you have access to the same information I and many other researchers have. Learn about it with passion to understand. No one can bullshit you if you have the same or more knowledge.

I in no means am bashing anyone or any company in this post, it is open knowledge.

Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day, teach a man to fish and he will have food for the rest of his life.
So, at a cursory glance. I compared the datasheets for the

HLG-600H http://www.meanwellusa.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-600H

and

EFD-1K2SxxxDT series https://www.inventronics-co.com/product-category/led-drivers/?typ[]=166&oup[]=177&oup[]=178#accordion-oup

Both claim 96% efficiency typical.


When you get to the meat and potatoes of it, the meanwell is better.

Let me explain why: power factor.

Low power factor is expensive and inefficient. Meanwell's is 98%, whereas the inventronics driver is 90% both at 100% load.

This can be adjusted with power factor correction equipment, but that adds overall cost and complexity.

I guess what I am saying is, don't just make blanket statements. Because there are other things to consider and sometimes the correct choice is not obvious.

What a low power factor means is that the power supply input draws current in short high magnitude bursts instead of a steady manner. It's hard on transmission equipment and the utility company knows and charges you for it.
 

Nyaga

Junior Soil Food Web Consultant
My questions were mostly rhetorical, unless you had decent answers I hadn't considered.. and even your own dumb ass "answers" fail to answer the real question of.. why use my quote to start a thread? You say



and then start a thread with an "irrelevant" quote??

I'm just saying you could have accomplished all you set out to without pulling my quote out of nowhere and taking it completely away from context.. If you can't see how that's not something most people do, well I guess I understand why you would feel it appropriate to do in the first place.

Best of luck with your thread bro
Thanks. Ok, think i'm done for now:
Meanwell claim 98% efficiency, whilst its proven more like 92% at higher wattages and lower lifespan, which is why I stated in one of my earlier posts if you going +300W you are better off getting inventronics as they are actually more efficient at higher wattage even though they state less.

Efficiency is usually rated/marketed at a specific load point. e.g. 50% load on the driver it is 98% efficient, but at 75-100% load is is closer to 90-92% efficient. I do not believe it is wrong for meanwell to rate their driver at 98% peak efficiency, NOTE at 50% load. Whilst remaining in a certain range e.g. above 90% do be given a certain rating of efficiency. Normal PC PSU's also have a rating system, bronze, silver, gold, platinum, titanium rated efficiency, I hope that rings a bell. Those ratings also mean the PSU efficiency, consistency, stability, reliability safety features never drops below a certain percentage from 0-100% load and meat the respective criteria standards, which is how they receive their ratings. There are standards for efficiency ratings for power supplies like PC PSUs but i'm not sure if the same applies to LED drivers or if they fall under a different regulating/certification authority or what the requirements are for using a rating on the product, technically, meanwell is not lying about its efficiency, but it also does not give full truth as it depends on the customer's usage of their products and your experience may vary depending on your usage.

Where inventronics may be using an average co-efficient to rate their drivers.
I hope this answers some questions or correct some statements made.

I purposefully withhold information in the hopes people would actually go out and do a bit more research. In some cases I may not know (highly likely), but then I will say I do not know, or I am not sure.

I in no way intended my quote of your words to disprove or shoot you down in any way. I did feel the direction of and discussion of said topic thread needed to be discussed in more depth thus a well deserved own thread. I also do not intend to come off as sarcastic, smarter or act in any way in which to offend any said person or company or whomever they represent.



If I had more time to spend on the forums I'd post better responses which took more time to explain. The fact that you are asking all these questions is a very good thing because it opens up discussion on topics never really discussed when it comes to what light to buy. Many people see lights and setups in youtube shows, or youtube grow influencers if you can call them that. I do feel with little effort and actual interest of communities that want to grow better together, knowledge is a powerful thing.

The more you know the easier you see through the bullshit and straight up marketing campaigns. I've gone to expos where people were supposed to explain how to grow your the best from seed to harvest. The whole time the chump was on stage he was upselling all his products on his online store and didn't explain a damn thing to +50 year olds that wants to grow his/her own medicine also attending the same expo as everyone else. Everything second or third sentence the "solution" to something is "you can buy x y z on our store for a b c". At no point did he explain on stage anything relating to the topic they claimed to be there for.

Not, how to guarantee germination of your bought seeds, to taking care of it during seedling stage. (if you smoke cigarettes wash your hands and where unpowdered sterile gloves handling the plant as they can get infected by a tabacco virus). Nothing, not soak the seed in de-chlorinated water for 12-24-48 hours. or scuffing a seed, or possibly a few drops of H peroxide, absolutely zero help to cannabis community. I do not assume the next person know as much as me or ever assume I know more than the next but I do have an urge share whatever I can, because believe it or not corporate has taken over the industry. Many people/businesses is in it solely for the money, and this, is sad.

Again, thank you all for your input on this thread, even Mr Quotesy, I don't think its illegal to quote anyone? jokes aside. Sincerely thanks to everyone.
 
Last edited:

NoWaistedSpace

PICK YOUR OWN
Lmao I was looking all over for the first page of the thread, with that quote I thought I was pages deep..


Dr Allison Justice?

Haha ya I recomend 700 min but generally 900-1000 without CO2 and my personal target. Btw at high intensities, I believe past 1100, you're going to want to start supplementing with green instead of white or red. Green supplementation has better photosynthetic rates at high intensities than red supplementation.

EDIT:
Idk why I always think 1100, but it looks more like past 425 PPFD on the adaxial side of the leaf is begining to favor green instead of red. Even earlier on the abaxial side.
View attachment 9493
View attachment 9494
View attachment 9495
This is why I use the 4000K's right along with my 2700K's. I just change my "ratio"and "light intensity" when I feel it is needed.
It's been all "trial" and "error" for earlier DIY community.
 
Last edited:

dstroy

Insanely Active Member
If you only have one or two le
Thanks. Ok, think i'm done for now:
Meanwell claim 98% efficiency, whilst its proven more like 92% at higher wattages and lower lifespan, which is why I stated in one of my earlier posts if you going +300W you are better off getting inventronics as they are actually more efficient at higher wattage even though they state less.

Efficiency is usually rated/marketed at a specific load point. e.g. 50% load on the driver it is 98% efficient, but at 75-100% load is is closer to 90-92% efficient. I do not believe it is wrong for meanwell to rate their driver at 98% peak efficiency, NOTE at 50% load. Whilst remaining in a certain range e.g. above 90% do be given a certain rating of efficiency. Normal PC PSU's also have a rating system, bronze, silver, gold, platinum, titanium rated efficiency, I hope that rings a bell. Those ratings also mean the PSU efficiency, consistency, stability, reliability safety features never drops below a certain percentage from 0-100% load and meat the respective criteria standards, which is how they receive their ratings. There are standards for efficiency ratings for power supplies like PC PSUs but i'm not sure if the same applies to LED drivers or if they fall under a different regulating/certification authority or what the requirements are for using a rating on the product, technically, meanwell is not lying about its efficiency, but it also does not give full truth as it depends on the customer's usage of their products and your experience may vary depending on your usage.

Where inventronics may be using an average co-efficient to rate their drivers.
I hope this answers some questions or correct some statements made.

Again, thank you all for your input on this thread, even Mr Quotesy, I don't think its illegal to quote anyone? jokes aside. Sincerely thanks to everyone.
Did you read the datasheet or no?

Where does the meanwell datasheet claim 98% efficiency typical? I was referring to the power factor rating.

Meanwell tests efficiency across the entire range, have a look

9530

at 50% load this driver is not 98% efficient.

We don't even KNOW what efficiency the inventronics is however, because they cut the graph off:

9531

If I were a betting man I would bet that below 60% load doesn't look great.

Where has it been proven that the numbers don't match? I'd like to read about it.

It would help if you would explain why you think the life of the driver will be degraded.

It isn't illegal to quote anyone, especially not in an open forum. It isn't even rude.
 

Nyaga

Junior Soil Food Web Consultant
Yeah my mistake, i read through your post really quickily, I'm quite tired its evening here in africa xD, Also the model type and input voltage also makes a difference in efficiency. would you pay 15-20% more for 1-2% more efficiency?
 

DET—PDX

Insanely Active Member
Lmao I was looking all over for the first page of the thread, with that quote I thought I was pages deep..


Dr Allison Justice?

Haha ya I recomend 700 min but generally 900-1000 without CO2 and my personal target. Btw at high intensities, I believe past 1100, you're going to want to start supplementing with green instead of white or red. Green supplementation has better photosynthetic rates at high intensities than red supplementation.

EDIT:
Idk why I always think 1100, but it looks more like past 425 PPFD on the adaxial side of the leaf is begining to favor green instead of red. Even earlier on the abaxial side.
View attachment 9493
View attachment 9494
View attachment 9495
Yup that was the Doctorate researcher! Couldn’t remember her name
 

DET—PDX

Insanely Active Member
Lmao I was looking all over for the first page of the thread, with that quote I thought I was pages deep..


Dr Allison Justice?

Haha ya I recomend 700 min but generally 900-1000 without CO2 and my personal target. Btw at high intensities, I believe past 1100, you're going to want to start supplementing with green instead of white or red. Green supplementation has better photosynthetic rates at high intensities than red supplementation.

EDIT:
Idk why I always think 1100, but it looks more like past 425 PPFD on the adaxial side of the leaf is begining to favor green instead of red. Even earlier on the abaxial side.
View attachment 9493
View attachment 9494
View attachment 9495
Dude thank you for posting the actual graphs! I haven’t had a chance to read through Allison’s methods and data analysis in the articles yet with my studying. I will most certainly do that now :)
 

dstroy

Insanely Active Member
Yeah my mistake, i read through your post really quickily, I'm quite tired its evening here in africa xD, Also the model type and input voltage also makes a difference in efficiency. would you pay 15-20% more for 1-2% more efficiency?
I guess I should have qualified the yes. Yes, for a power supply. Maybe not for a diode, which wasn't what I was talking about at all.

Yes, but only because generally you wont be buying another one for approximately fifteen to twenty years. Over time it adds up.
 
Top