Look at this.....

[treefarmercharlie]

I would need to see that effect before trying it and seeing the long term effect on the plants. I'm not as worried about the soil, but the fact that I let it get dry between feedings, and I know they start drinking immediately. You can see the leaves perk up in less than an hour sometimes.

Remember that I'm talking about organic growing. If you are letting your pots dry out then you are already killing off a lot of the bacteria, which help balance things out, and also help with the lack of needing to pH your water.

 

[H.A.F.]

Remember that I'm talking about organic growing. If you are letting your pots dry out then you are already killing off a lot of the bacteria, which help balance things out, and also help with the lack of needing to pH your water.

I'm not talking arid and wilting plants. I'm talking light pots. 3 days or so between watering. The timeframe between them looking thirsty and flat to them looking well fed and reaching can take less than an hour. Consistently.

My only point there was that they take water immediately. If I can convince myself that the buffering takes place in that first 2" like you say then I am more game to try it. But that would be my first step.

 

[Old ST1R]

That is also anecdotal. Reusing soil can create a lot of issues if you aren't careful. I'm not saying you are wrong. What works for you works for you.

If I get to that point I will keep it in mind as a possible solution. So far I'm a year or so in and they keep looking better and better.

Your plants do always look stellar!

I just think that one or two drops of PH’ing per gallon isn’t making a difference.

 

[H.A.F.]

Your plants do always look stellar!

I just think that one or two drops of PH’ing per gallon isn’t making a difference.

Thanks! I think I would rather deal with a few ppm of the pHing stuff than to try and adjust my soil with lime or something and screw it completely up.

 

[lakegrow]

I have been using TNB natural PH Up which is simply Potassium Hydrogen Carbonate in powder form. It only takes a small amount and supposedly safe for the microbes. When I occasionally add light nuits it tends to drop the PH considerably so 1/16 to 1/8 tsp brings up to 6.5. So far has worked fine or so I think as plants look good.

 

[H.A.F.]

I have been using TNB natural PH Up which is simply Potassium Hydrogen Carbonate in powder form. It only takes a small amount and supposedly safe for the microbes. When I occasionally add light nuits it tends to drop the PH considerably so 1/16 to 1/8 tsp brings up to 6.5. So far has worked fine or so I think as plants look good.

I have the FF "Gringo" whatever pH up and down. I think it's pretty much the same thing but in liquid form. Their pH down is probably citric acid in powder form.

Hint: Everything is 'organic' if you take it down to the molecular level. 100% Iron is organic. Or calcium, or whatever.

Definition of organic (Entry 1 of 2) 1 a (1) : of, relating to, yielding, or involving the use of food produced with the use of feed or fertilizer of plant or animal origin without employment of chemically formulated fertilizers, growth stimulants, antibiotics, or pesticides

That is the difference between most of the stuff we use and the Miracle Gro compounds of timed release bullshit. The difference is like using ground up oyster shell and letting the plant work for it, or using a chemical to extract the goodies from the same oyster shell powder then diluting it before adding it to water

 

[treefarmercharlie]

Hint: Everything is 'organic' if you take it down to the molecular level. 100% Iron is organic. Or calcium, or whatever.

The reason for not using pH Up/Down isn't so much because it isn't organic. Supposedly it throws off the microbial life in the soil due to whatever it is made from. I know some of them aren't citric acid, though, because it is recommended to use citric acid to lower the pH of water for organic grows.

 

[H.A.F.]

The reason for not using pH Up/Down isn't so much because it isn't organic. Supposedly it throws off the microbial life in the soil due to whatever it is made from. I know some of them aren't citric acid, though, because it is recommended to use citric acid to lower the pH of water for organic grows.

Just saying - we have a plant with a known preference for a certain pH. Even to the point that we know it is different in soil and hydro. Why would we care what it should be in soil if we were not meant to compensate for that?

 

[treefarmercharlie]

Just saying - we have a plant with a known preference for a certain pH. Even to the point that we know it is different in soil and hydro. Why would we care what it should be in soil if we were not meant to compensate for that?

Because there is less of a need when you grow organically. The reason they have preferred pH levels for soil is partially because it helps with the chelated nutrient absorption.