Controlling VPD

PuffTheMagic

Super Active Member
So far my fairly naive VPD controller is working pretty well. Right now im turning on my fan when the VPD is above a certain threshold and the lights are on. It works better when the temps outside are colder and the humidity in the house is low around 30%.

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PuffTheMagic

Super Active Member
It's not obvious but I watered on the 7th. I am trying to maintain a 1.2-1.3 VPD, and on the 6th you can see that VPD is going well above this. The plants were getting pretty dry at this point, I should have used this as a signal to water. On the 7th when I did water the leaves were getting sorta droopy.
 

PuffTheMagic

Super Active Member
I look at VPD like this: Above 1 (low humidity) they are biased towards drinking from their roots, under 1 (high humidity) and they drink from the atmosphere. If you are trying 'feed' the plants you need it biased towards being slightly over 1 so they actually pull from their roots. Also, higher humidity is fine for veg (i.e. VPD of 1) but lower humidity is recommended towards end of flower to counteract mold (i.e. VPD 1.1-1.2). All my plants are praying like yours.
 

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PuffTheMagic

Super Active Member
What I been saying. People don't realize how important it is
I fully appreciate that VPD is one of (if not the most) important factor when growing. When I was using the AC infinity controller I would set it on humidity control at ~72% RH and high temp thresh at 84F... Thats pretty much right on par with what @Lanestrainley was suggesting which is about a VPD of 1. However, the limited material I've seen on VPD says higher VPD for flower. You seem to be suggesting using the same VPD in veg and flower. I haven't grow enough to actually argue that X is better than Y but as a data nerd, if you have any quantifiable way to show that lower VPD is better in flower I'd love to see it.
 

Lanestrainley

Really Active Member
I look at VPD like this: Above 1 (low humidity) they are biased towards drinking from their roots, under 1 (high humidity) and they drink from the atmosphere. If you are trying 'feed' the plants you need it biased towards being slightly over 1 so they actually pull from their roots. Also, higher humidity is fine for veg (i.e. VPD of 1) but lower humidity is recommended towards end of flower to counteract mold (i.e. VPD 1.1-1.2). All my plants are praying like yours.
I agree in part but, at 30c you reach peak photosynthesis and the plant is actually using the uptake instead of storing it, and once you push it it’s stress, the smoothest tastiest buds doesn’t come from late choice feeding programs, it come from perfect vpd all the way through and boron at the right times in the right amounts, the plants actually racing at that point and if you’re already using Co2 you can only pump up the photosynthesis by introducing phytochromes. The plant uses the uptake and doesn’t store it, that’s why I can feed a 850ppm schedule and get the results I’m looking for. Flavour AND yield. It’s my personal so I want both. SST, LAB tea work wonders on low ppm feed schedules with proper vpd.
 

Lanestrainley

Really Active Member
Also I say this, If a plant is in the proper vpd and at maximum photosynthesis everything is working properly, immune systems are at maximum performance, I have only had to prop open a few strains because of mold concerns, if the plant is accustomed to 75rh it’s fine all the way throughout flowering if you make sure your nights are perfect as well.
 

Heisen

Dont Need One
Admin
I fully appreciate that VPD is one of (if not the most) important factor when growing. When I was using the AC infinity controller I would set it on humidity control at ~72% RH and high temp thresh at 84F... Thats pretty much right on par with what @Lanestrainley was suggesting which is about a VPD of 1. However, the limited material I've seen on VPD says higher VPD for flower. You seem to be suggesting using the same VPD in veg and flower. I haven't grow enough to actually argue that X is better than Y but as a data nerd, if you have any quantifiable way to show that lower VPD is better in flower I'd love to see it.
Naw I think lower humidity is ok.in later flower to prevent mold issues
 

oldsilvertip

Really Active Member
I agree in part but, at 30c you reach peak photosynthesis and the plant is actually using the uptake instead of storing it, and once you push it it’s stress, the smoothest tastiest buds doesn’t come from late choice feeding programs, it come from perfect vpd all the way through and boron at the right times in the right amounts, the plants actually racing at that point and if you’re already using Co2 you can only pump up the photosynthesis by introducing phytochromes. The plant uses the uptake and doesn’t store it, that’s why I can feed a 850ppm schedule and get the results I’m looking for. Flavour AND yield. It’s my personal so I want both. SST, LAB tea work wonders on low ppm feed schedules with proper vpd.
how does one know what vpd your garden is @? they have a meter for that?
So far my fairly naive VPD controller is working pretty well. Right now im turning on my fan when the VPD is above a certain threshold and the lights are on. It works better when the temps outside are colder and the humidity in the house is low around 30%.

View attachment 105102
what is a good VPD controller ? not the highest priced , limited funds
 

H.A.F.

a.k.a. Rusty Nails
The main reason for worrying about VPD is to max out the plants potential yield. If the temp and humidity stay in the ballpark and the plants stay happy you should be fine. I think people really started worrying about it when they started introducing CO2. If you don't have everything else in the grow optimized CO2 is a waste. You need the upper edge of the VPD limit to be able to juice the plants to get that extra pound-o-weed...

High 70's, low 80's and low rH in flower and you should be fine.
 

Lanestrainley

Really Active Member
how does one know what vpd your garden is @? they have a meter for that?

what is a good VPD controller ? not the highest priced , limited funds
I use a short cycle timer and a humidifier set to constant. Then I take a infrared thermometer and measure leaf temp, then I make the adjustments needed, if any. For the most part my attention to room design is what allows me to do this with such little gear. My room size/btu ratio is damn near perfect and the bulbs dry the air out almost perfectly, I need to run a dehuey in late flower though. There is a vpd chart available across the web, this works for most plants, I’ve found the sweet spot for cactus, avocados, lemon trees and a Nanking cherry tree, proper VPD helps with grafting immensely.
 

oldsilvertip

Really Active Member
I use a short cycle timer and a humidifier set to constant. Then I take a infrared thermometer and measure leaf temp, then I make the adjustments needed, if any. For the most part my attention to room design is what allows me to do this with such little gear. My room size/btu ratio is damn near perfect and the bulbs dry the air out almost perfectly, I need to run a dehuey in late flower though. There is a vpd chart available across the web, this works for most plants, I’ve found the sweet spot for cactus, avocados, lemon trees and a Nanking cherry tree, proper VPD helps with grafting immensely.
bad case of sticker shock for me,looks like the 4 gang wall plug goes to work! leaf temp @72f in my small abode53%rh,82 degrees f , seems i've got to swing a filter and do some other things
 
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The main reason for worrying about VPD is to max out the plants potential yield. If the temp and humidity stay in the ballpark and the plants stay happy you should be fine. I think people really started worrying about it when they started introducing CO2. If you don't have everything else in the grow optimized CO2 is a waste. You need the upper edge of the VPD limit to be able to juice the plants to get that extra pound-o-weed...

High 70's, low 80's and low rH in flower and you should be fine.
My guess is my VPD is probably 3 or higher. Less than 10% RH and 81 F right now in the closet. I think I'm pushing it.
 
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