Tvanmunhen
Just some dude
I went back and read that. I'm not saying oxygen is the cause of the problem. I'm just saying the snot remaining on the stem will block its access to oxygen and cause rot.
Vertical Goodness and Other Batshit Craziness
- Thread starter ttystikk
- Start date
Tvanmunhen
Just some dude
The cause could be a whole host of reasons. Not sure you were interested in finding the cause. Just the solution.
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
Yes I run it continuously. It's at72F, which is apparently where a lot of people say is ideal.
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
Ok that's actionable intelligence and I can certainly pull each stem and give it a good swish in some kind of dip. Should I just run water or add something to it?
I'm changing the cloner water; it's getting a bit foamy.
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
The solution at the moment and then I'm certainly interested in causes so I can prevent the problem from recurring.
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
So like 15 on and 15 off?
Streetpro09
Tester
Yeah that temp is nothing crazy. Now if it was closer to or over 80, then that might be an issue. I couldnt keep my temps down unless i added a timer. 15 on 15 off worked for me but i remember guys doing something like 2 min on and 15 off but that required a better/more expensive timer.
Anyway i think you'll get faster rooting times if you include a "dry" time. Otherwise too wet seams to cause problems, imo.
Tvanmunhen
Just some dude
I would run tap water.
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
I'll try it. I have a spare timer.
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
Can do.
pinner420
Finally on a roll....
1 on 4 off is my method keeps temps in check and reduces need to keep super high rh. I'm at 40 rh and defies convention however works. I do 3mil micro 3 mil bloom like .5 ec so when they pop they have something to eat. Ph 5.8 ish. The p makes for excellent root explosion. After roots pop then a touch of trichoderma to get some biology in the mix.
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
This is all good information.
I dumped my aerocloner water last night and refilled with two water. I'll do that again today.
Since I use dry nutrient salts I can't replicate you nutrient recipe but if you give me something to go on I can make something up.
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
The last time I had a timer to do that it broke in a week.
Trichoderma is what, exactly?
I read up on it and it seems like something that works better in soil than an aqueous environment like the aerocloner.
pinner420
Finally on a roll....
I use it for about 3 days and it's more of an inoculation. I've had the same tr bottle for years it's trex by cutting edge. They had a contract with a guy that made their stock for g Rex and then some legal stuff happened and they parted ways and they shut that division down. Not sure you could buy it fresh any longer.
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
I'm guessing there's other stuff in the market that will work?
pinner420
Finally on a roll....
The t rex product is equivalent to a myco. The stuff I have is predatory liquid lighten your wallet stuff that's pretty sweet but won't try to find it again lol. The g rex stuff though that shit was worth its weight in gold that some funky fungi mix that made magic happen.... Not super high on the priority list as a guy can get stuff rollin with plain water. No matter the mix you choose to strike roots reservoir changes on the 10 day mark seem to keep things happy... Fresh clone colars are great too... I run 100 ppfd at canopy on the cloner..
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
Good to know. If plain water is the thing to use, then changing it every few days costs nothing but the time to do it. For me that's 5 minutes for it to drain and 18 seconds with the hose (I count it out; my hose pushes 5 seconds per gallon lol)
ttystikk
Nerd Gone Vertical
I wrote this in another forum but it belongs here too:
Well over 30 years ago I had a single ended thousand Watt HPS on magnetic ballast mounted horizontally in an early "wing" style fixture. This wing was suspended in a swivel from one end of a 5' long bar with a gallon milk jug full of water hanging from the other end as a counterweight.
The bar was mounted to the crank arm of a bicycle hanging from the ceiling. The crank was pulled backwards by the chain, which went through a high gear in the pancake at the back. Turning the rear bike tire (the front of the bike was simply sawed off) was a shaft connected to a windshield wiper assembly from a Honda Civic, driven by a low voltage battery charger. This gear reduction arrangement meant the light fixture would rotate once about every 3 and a half minutes.
The fixture was positioned just 18" over a carefully SCRoG'ged canopy to be dead level across the garden of 12 plants in bloom; half a dozen each in early bloom and the other in late bloom. Every three weeks the finished crop would be replaced by 6 more bloom ready plants.
The entire canopy and grow area was more or less the shape of a stop sign about 8' across when viewed from above. The perimeter was made up of a bunch of 5' tall stakes, each standing up in a pot full of old dirt. The area thus enclosed was about 45ft².
Taped to each post was reflective mylar plastic, the roll went all the way around the perimeter of the grow. The entry was where the beginning and end overlapped slightly; I just moved the pot with the post. This mylar film was classic hard bounce, a mirror you could use to shave. Because the light source moved, every reflection did as well. Every plant got blasted with the thouie at close range for about 30 seconds once every 3 1/2 minutes and the rest of the time it got light from up to 5 feet away, along with light reflected from the entire perimeter.
I tried white panda film at first but it was not nearly as effective because the light hit it and scattered. The mylar bounced it straight back into the canopy.
Every plant in there absolutely LOVED the arrangement and grew on average a quarter pound of frosty, juicy Northern Lights x Skunk.
I found out later that a plant can get more light than it can continuously use and then work with that energy for up to three and a half minutes or so before it needs another blast. My arrangement hit that sweet spot without me knowing; I had created the perfect partly cloudy day!
I still think about that old system regularly because I'm sure there are more lessons it can teach about the performance benefits of moving lights, intermittent pulses of very bright light, the benefits of hard bounce reflective materials when using a moving light source and possibly more.
Think about it; that ONE thouie (along with an extensive pre bloom veg that delivered a batch of bloom ready plants every three weeks) produced on average half a pound of top shelf cannabis a week. And the fucking bulb was four years old! I didn't even know I had to swap out lamps every few months!
Well over 30 years ago I had a single ended thousand Watt HPS on magnetic ballast mounted horizontally in an early "wing" style fixture. This wing was suspended in a swivel from one end of a 5' long bar with a gallon milk jug full of water hanging from the other end as a counterweight.
The bar was mounted to the crank arm of a bicycle hanging from the ceiling. The crank was pulled backwards by the chain, which went through a high gear in the pancake at the back. Turning the rear bike tire (the front of the bike was simply sawed off) was a shaft connected to a windshield wiper assembly from a Honda Civic, driven by a low voltage battery charger. This gear reduction arrangement meant the light fixture would rotate once about every 3 and a half minutes.
The fixture was positioned just 18" over a carefully SCRoG'ged canopy to be dead level across the garden of 12 plants in bloom; half a dozen each in early bloom and the other in late bloom. Every three weeks the finished crop would be replaced by 6 more bloom ready plants.
The entire canopy and grow area was more or less the shape of a stop sign about 8' across when viewed from above. The perimeter was made up of a bunch of 5' tall stakes, each standing up in a pot full of old dirt. The area thus enclosed was about 45ft².
Taped to each post was reflective mylar plastic, the roll went all the way around the perimeter of the grow. The entry was where the beginning and end overlapped slightly; I just moved the pot with the post. This mylar film was classic hard bounce, a mirror you could use to shave. Because the light source moved, every reflection did as well. Every plant got blasted with the thouie at close range for about 30 seconds once every 3 1/2 minutes and the rest of the time it got light from up to 5 feet away, along with light reflected from the entire perimeter.
I tried white panda film at first but it was not nearly as effective because the light hit it and scattered. The mylar bounced it straight back into the canopy.
Every plant in there absolutely LOVED the arrangement and grew on average a quarter pound of frosty, juicy Northern Lights x Skunk.
I found out later that a plant can get more light than it can continuously use and then work with that energy for up to three and a half minutes or so before it needs another blast. My arrangement hit that sweet spot without me knowing; I had created the perfect partly cloudy day!
I still think about that old system regularly because I'm sure there are more lessons it can teach about the performance benefits of moving lights, intermittent pulses of very bright light, the benefits of hard bounce reflective materials when using a moving light source and possibly more.
Think about it; that ONE thouie (along with an extensive pre bloom veg that delivered a batch of bloom ready plants every three weeks) produced on average half a pound of top shelf cannabis a week. And the fucking bulb was four years old! I didn't even know I had to swap out lamps every few months!
