QB132 V2 Quantum Boards × 1 V2 3000K

ChiefRunningPhist

Drunk on Knowledge
I come here a virgin and willing to let someone be my first. Need someone with huge cock, and knowledge of QB's. I believe I am going to purchase my first ever QB and have an idea what I would like for my veg room. Something like this would be nice:

https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/kits/products/260w-xl-qb-v2-led-kit

I like the Slate 2 triple cause I can spread my boards out more for my 4 x 4 tent. Two slates, four boards and two drivers should do the trick.
I will want to have a dimmer on it. Will need someone to hold my hand and gently whisper sweet messages in my ear on what to buy and how to connect. Also, how will I know how many watts it's using?

Eagerly awaiting hot young knowledgeable stud with answers :geek:
BSD here, I'll take your V card lol

With 4 boards in a 4x4 you're going to want active cooling. I run 142W per board but have to use (4) 7cm axial fans to keep them under 115f.

I'd recommend (2) 320h drivers or 1 600h driver. If you go with a 600h you'll need QB's with forward voltages 54V or less.

Get QBs with added red and you won't have to worry about supplement strips.

The bigger the QB number the better imo. The thing you're trying to maximize is chip count. The more chips you have the cooler per watt you'll run.
 

Spondylo Grow

Really Active Member
It depends on how they are wired. If they are 18S18P then it'll be ~51V board but if they are wired 36S9P then you'll need twice the voltage, so it'd be ~102V board with 36S9P. Voltages will increase as you brighten, decrease as you dim, so it'll be somewhere in there depending. Also trace resistance and wire resistance ect adds to the total voltage needed so it'll be a bit higher generally.

The LM301B and Nichia 757 v3 are about identical in how they react to current, below is an overlay of a 757 v3 (longer) and a LM301b (shorter), the 757 v3 looks like it needs a bit more voltage to flow the same current but pretty close and the overlay isn't exact..
View attachment 10094

So look on the board for a 18P18S or 36S9P marking, most boards have a basic SP label.

Mid power chips will typically only be rated for 3.0V. So you can use 3.0V as a generic number when guesstimating regardless of chip brand. Find the number in the SP label referring to the number of chips in series and multiply that S number by 3.0V to get what voltage you'll need. X amount of chips in series multiplied by 3.0V per chip.

If the board is wired 36S9P then current gets divided 9 ways. So 1400 ÷ 9 = 155mA. 155mA per row means 155mA per chip because the 36 chips in the row are wired in series which means that current stays the same throughout each chip along the 36 chip series pathway. At 155mA each chip will correspond to about 2.9V (look at graph), so the board would need, 104.4V (36 chips × 2.9V). Watts equal V × A, so 1.4A total × 104.4V = 146.6W. ... ...Now that's an exact number but calculated from a bunch of estimated or extrapolated figures from graphs etc, so real world will be close but will always wiggle a bit from calculated properties.

If the board was 18P18S, then 1400mA divided by 18 rows equals 78mA per 18 chip string. Looking at where V correlates at 78mA for a 757 v3 we notice about 2.75V per chip is needed to flow 78mA, so the total board V is 49.5V. Watts = V × A, so 49.5V × 1.4A = 69.3W

If you can't find a SP label then you could plug the 324 into the 240h 1400 by itself, and measure the voltage with a multimeter. Or you could just try to add them all on like they were 50V boards and if it doesn't fire then they are 110V boards. If they fire it means 50V boards and 70 w per board, if they don't fire it means they are 110V and 1 will draw 150W at 1400mA.

EDIT:
Oops you said 757 v1 not v3, which will probably require a tad more voltage per chip over the v3, but still be pretty same ballpark, at 18 chips or 36 chips and only a .05V difference in forward voltage, you'll be within a volt or 2 of each other
It says that it is 18SX18P on the boards. Here they are. 20181009_213300.jpg
 

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ChiefRunningPhist

Drunk on Knowledge
Lol, like I said. 😎😎😎 By the math.
Just giving ya a hard time bud. Lol.😉
Looks like he got it.
Lol no you had it nailed, no need for me to jump in and confuse haha, I've never seen a 6V 3030 so when I saw you accept the 6.1V figure in your calculation, and using assumed variables of 110V, and 18S no less, I figured you just made an error, but then I tasted my foot a lil when I realized there actually was a 6V 3030 (and especially after I just mentioned using 3V as a universal figure to estimate all mid power chips at!), you must have known this, and thus what I gauged as assumptions were actually figures that you were merely checking by working your solve backwords, When I saw the data sheet you can bet my chubby went down pretty fast haha :LOL::ROFLMAO:
 

Spondylo Grow

Really Active Member
What's up guys. Made it back with some pics of this qb build. So to recap it's, 1 qb324 (3k spectrum) surrounded by 4 qb120s (4k spectrum). Powered by the 320-1400A driver. At full tilt it's pulling 343 watts at the wall, and it is dimmable down to around 116w. Very happy with this, and it will serve the purpose well. Thanks for the help you guys.

20190615_171740.jpg 20190615_172359.jpg 20190615_164951.jpg 20190615_172032.jpg
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
BSD here, I'll take your V card lol

With 4 boards in a 4x4 you're going to want active cooling. I run 142W per board but have to use (4) 7cm axial fans to keep them under 115f.

I'd recommend (2) 320h drivers or 1 600h driver. If you go with a 600h you'll need QB's with forward voltages 54V or less.

Get QBs with added red and you won't have to worry about supplement strips.

The bigger the QB number the better imo. The thing you're trying to maximize is chip count. The more chips you have the cooler per watt you'll run.
This seems like soooo long ago. I have now built 2 qb132's a qb96 and I uave another qb132 I'm gonna incorporate the qb96 in thw middle of. Its gonna be a cross with the 96 in the middle. The 132 at the 4 ends # like a hashtag. I have 8 ft of angle and I can wother make my entire fixture overall dimensions 24" and cut the 8 footer 4 times or just buy another piece and make it 36" eide to fit in my 4x4 tent. I'm gonna use a lrs350-36 from my bro @Big Terps
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
Now if I remember correctly. These both have the same outer 6 inch diameter. I wanna hard pipe these together using a 6" furnace pipe. Only thing is I'm gonna need a coupling of sorts the only thing at lowes would only have one female end to accept either the filter OR the fan. I need a short nipple with a female on both ends. Any ideas @jesselikestogrow Capture+_2020-02-08-20-34-06.pngCapture+_2020-02-08-20-34-26.png
 

TerpyTyrone

LED Recruiter
If I'm understanding correct your needing to attach to male ends?
For that I'd just trim a pc of reg ducting the length you'd want using the non flanged end.
Ya know what. Your F'ing right. As always. I got to looking after posting and was like oh ya. The pipe IS the max outer diameter. And the pipe is crimped on the ends. I'm such an electrician carpenter. I was thinking female ends and couplings. Cool. Imma get a piece of pipe, some silicone , a few tek screws, a piece of angle and I got another complete setup!! All for around 500$ 100 tent, 130 exhaust, 250$ in a qb96 and 4 qb132's!!!! Voila. I got 2 4x4s and i want moreeeee
 
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